A lady takes a photo of an exquisitely-crafted Nanjing Yunjin brocade robe. 

The Nanjing Yunjin brocade, known for its stunning luster, exquisite patterns, and a wealth of shades, represents the highest level of Chinese brocade craftsmanship. It was the designated textile for the imperial courts of the Yuan (1206-1368), Ming (1368-1644), and Qing (1616-1911) dynasties, and is still highly regarded to this day. 

Yunjin can be dated back 1,600 years to the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420), and reached its height a millennium later during the Qing Dynasty, when over 30,000 looms operated in Nanjing and nearly 300,000 people were engaged in the industry. In 2006, the Nanjing Yunjin brocade weaving technique was added to China’s national list of intangible cultural heritage items. In 2009, the craft was also added to the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. 

Unlike many other textiles that add embroidery to finished textiles, what sets Yunjin apart is that its motifs are woven directly into the fabric, which demands advanced skills and refined craftsmanship. Silk threads, gold threads, and peacock feathers among other luxurious yarns are also used. 

The production process of Yunjin consists of five major stages: pattern design, pattern drafting, material preparation, loom preparation, and weaving. 

Two artisans are required in weaving the fabric on a wooden loom: one is responsible for adjusting the warp, the other for inserting weft and applying gold and colored decorations. The weaving is a very time-consuming step: A brocade panel just 78 centimeters in width needs more than 11,000 warp threads and numerous weft threads of various colors to pass over and under the warp. Two artisans on one loom can produce only five to six centimeters per day. This level of craftsmanship remains unattainable by any modern machines to date. 

Precious yarns, complex techniques, and long production hours involved has earned this gorgeous fabric the reputation “an inch of the brocade is worth an inch of gold.” 

In the modern era, Yunjin artisans have transformed this once imperial craft into objects that enrich modern life. This traditional fabric is increasingly being embraced by younger generations. Fashion items such as scarves and brooches creatively infuse this ancient art with renewed vitality.