The Square Pagoda has nine tiers demarcated by upswept eaves. Metal bells dangle from the tips, their sweet reverberations carried far on the wind. Some interpret the sound as the urging of Buddha for we earthlings to listen to our hearts. Others say it is simply a reminder to slow down and appreciate the beauty of nature.

Beside the Song pagoda is a brick screenwall of Taoist origin, dating back to 1370 in the Ming Dynasty. Its façade is emblazoned with carvings of qilin, a mythical animal, against a background of clouds, flora, gold ingots, pearls, jade charms and coins, all standing for good wishes. Multiple carving techniques were applied, including relief, piercing and openwork. Each cut is superbly executed.

Despite the ravages of time and wars, Songjiang has preserved a number of age-old buildings from different historical periods, each with a story behind it. The stately gatetower of the prefecture headquarters in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, the last vestige of the compound and landmark of Songjiang, is said to occupy the grounds where Lu Xun, the gallant general of the Wu Kingdom, inspected his soldiers.

Zuibaichi is one of the best-known private gardens in Shanghai. It evolved from the Guyang (southern side of Gushui River) Garden of Song scholar Zhu Zhichun, who named it after a line from a poem by Lu Ji, locating Songjiang, the writer’s hometown, on the southern side of the Gushui River. In the late Ming Dynasty a minister and celebrated painter from Songjiang introduced new elements into the garden – the famous Four-side Hall and Boat House. In the mid-Qing Dynasty a local painter purchased the estate and refined its design.

The garden consists of outer and inner sections. The inner part is the original garden, and the more natural outer section is a later addition. The compact inner part centers on a pool, Zuibai, which is encircled by intricate covered walkways, pavilions and chambers, all shaded by centuries-old trees. The limited space is ingeniously compartmented, displaying refreshing views at every angle but never revealing its beauty in full. Its architectural and horticultural excellence challenges that of Suzhou, the city with the most elegant gardens in China.

People of Renown

Leading the nation’s textile industry, Songjiang enjoyed its economic peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Historical records say that the region “produced tens of thousands of bolts of cloth a day,” and “supplied the world with bedding and clothing.” The booming economy brought Songjiang huge revenues and consequently made it the biggest taxpayer in all China. Every year the prefecture handed the central government 84 million kilograms of rice, equal to the taxes paid by a dozen or more counties combined.

Two women were critical to the development of textile production, the economic lifeblood of Songjiang. One was Huang Daopo, a native of 13th-century Shanghai. Huang fled to Hainan Island in her youth, where the Li people taught her spinning and weaving techniques, which she innovated and improved. On her return home, she passed on her skills to local residents, significantly upgrading the region’s textile industry. Songjiang soon rose as the cotton weaving center of China.