In the 1920s and 1930s Shanghai's governance decreed that transportation and municipal facilities be developed for the prosperous metropolis, though it remained divided into four administrative sections: International Settlement (British and American concession), French concession, Nanshi and Zhabei. Administrative barrier hindered smooth traffic. In July 1927, the Nanking government announced the establishment of the Shanghai Special Municipality, and put forward the "Great Shanghai Program."

Gradually Shanghai's urban districts removed their barriers, which brought Shanghai to its zenith. In the 1930s, Shanghai was called a "paradise for adventurers" by European and American merchants, and its reputation was on par with such romantic locales as London, New York and Paris. In World War II, it received large numbers of Jewish refugees from Europe. Then in late 1941 the Pacific War broke out, and Japanese troops took over the foreign concessions, and tried to destroy British, American and French influences. The era of foreign concessions was over. In August 1945 Japan surrendered, and the Nanking government took over Shanghai.

When Shanghai was liberated in 1949, foreign companies and parts of foreign nationals withdrew; but it still remained an economic, industrial and cultural powerhouse of China, and an important conduit for its foreign trade.

In 1990, the Chinese government proclaimed the opening and development of Pudong, designating it "Shanghai's future and hope." The aim is to build Pudong into an export-oriented, multi-functional and modern district, and an international financial center and international navigation center. The 21th century added the Oriental Pearl TV Tower and Jinmao Tower to the skyline, and the Shanghai International Convention Center and Pudong International Airport rounded out travel facilities. Lujiazui Financial and Trade Zone of Pudong has promising future prospects. The establishment of national markets, covering finance and securities, futures trade, technology and foreign exchanges, has cemented Shanghai's position as a national resource allocation center, and geared it to the global economy. In October 2001 the APEC summit meeting was held here, establishing it as an international economic, financial and trade center for the new century.

The Bund has gone from being a flood land of the Huangpu River to the most dazzling place in Shanghai since its days as a British settlement. Today it is known as the showcase of Shanghai for its 52 tall buildings in a plethora of architectural styles. This is the seat of Shanghai Customs and a financial, commercial and even cultural convergence zone.

Jinjiang Hotel on Changle Road and Maoming Road is a living record of Shanghai's interface with the world. The North Building was built in 1929, combining European traditions with modern architecture and facilities. After liberation in 1949 it became the first state guesthouse in Shanghai. In the ensuing 60 years it received more than 400 heads of state, and government leaders from more than 100 countries, bearing witness to countless important diplomatic events. In 1972, Premier Zhou Enlai and President Nixon signed the Sino-US Joint Communiqué here. On this spot in 2000, President Jiang Zemin met Danish Prime Minister Anders Fogh Rasmussen. In June 2001 SCO Summit Meeting attendees walked its halls.

Since 1843 when Shanghai was opened as a treaty port, it has grown into the largest city in China, and also the economic, financial and navigational center of the Chinese mainland. A combination of Chinese and Western elements make Shanghai a modern cultural metropolis with traditional character, giving it its unique charm. The old Western buildings on the Bund and modern skyscrapers in Pudong set one another off very nicely. As for the other senses, near Xujiahui Church one can hear hymns, while in the Jade Buddha Temple smoke coils up from burning incense. Under roofed passageways, the elderly play mahjong, and in small lanes children are busy with games of football. In small theaters, Shanghai Opera and farce are staged, and in the Grand Theater symphonies and ballets draw crowds. In old restaurants Shanghai cuisine is on offer, and in Xinghualou Restaurant, Cantonese tea is served. On Yunnan Road tourists can sample snacks from various provincial cuisines, and in Red House Restaurant people can sit down for the gastronomic pleasures of France. One can enjoy both Shaoxing's Sanhuang Chicken and American Kentucky Fried Chicken. There are Chinese-style teahouses and Western bars. When night falls, Shanghai's rich nightlife grips the city. For the nostalgic, strains of jazz in Peace Hotel or the music of traditional stringed and woodwind instruments in Yuyuan Park will recall old Shanghai in the 1920s and 1930s. For the here-and-now enthusiasts, modern discos, clubs and bars are in tune with the hum of modern civilization in the 21st century.

JIANG FUMEI is a freelance writer with a master's degree in history from Tsinghua University.