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Guan Kiln porcelain refers to products of the official kiln administered by the government of the Song Dynasty in Kaifeng. Artistically, the Guan Kiln combines a primitive simplicity with natural elegance, obtained through a complicated process of repeated glazing and firing executed meticulously. Since the kiln was fired only for a short period, and its products were reserved for imperial use, few of them can be found on the antique market today. Now artists in Kaifeng have restored the workings of the Guan Kiln after a period of intense and meticulous research.

Several of Kaifeng’s unusual folk traditions have also survived, including the art of cockfighting. The combatants, known as gamecocks, are specially bred birds, conditioned for increased stamina and strength. In general, the fighting roosters are bigger and taller than the average farmyard cockerel, and fed on a special high-protein diet. These battling birds are matched up according to their heights and weights, in much the same way as boxers and wrestlers.

Royal Taste Tests

Henan Cuisine was born in Kaifeng based on the royal cuisines of the Northern Song Dynasty. Henan dishes combine a number of different Chinese cuisines including Sichuan, Beijing and Cantonese styles of cooking. Dishes here are characterized by their salty but palatable taste and colorful appearance.

Kaifeng snacks make it worth the trip. Flour is often a major ingredient, and very little oil is used in preparation. While noodles and bread are especially popular, the large Kaifeng snack family offers a wide range of delicious specialties such as steamed pies and dumplings. The city’s most beloved steamed dumplings can be found at the Diyilou Dumpling Restaurant. Other examples of Kaifeng’s characteristic fast food dainties include its mutton rolls, Barrel Chicken and Egg Pocket.

What is particular in the case of Kaifeng is the ceremony, which is often more significant than the food itself. Wait until dark for the spectacle of more than 100 wheeled food stands, pushed by their vendors, marching together like clockwork to file into position when the city’s famous snack market opens for the night.

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VOL.59 NO.12 December 2010 Advertise on Site Contact Us