Uncut jade can be polished or processed to bring it up to a satisfactory standard. Gradation is linked to the degree of processing. A Grade-A emerald, for example, is one that has been cut, carved and polished but whose color and innate substance remain unaltered. An emerald that has been washed in acid or alkali and reconstituted with synthetic resin is of Grade B, specifically classified in the market as a washed or bathed emerald "after bleaching and reconstitution." Dyed emeralds are Grade C, known as coated or clothed emeralds. Evaluation standards include color, transparency, structure, purity, cutting workmanship and weight.

Grade A emeralds with a glass-like transparency.

    The Chinese character for emerald, feicui, is the same as that for kingfishers, the red male called fei and the green female the cui. Natural emeralds are also either green or red, hence their Chinese name. Emeralds came into Chinese favor in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, when they suddenly became regarded as the finest of all jade.

    The Confucian school highly commends the five virtues of jades, comparing them with the five virtues of the "true man." The luster of jade symbolizes benevolence, its transparency justice, its tone wisdom, its solidity courage, and its whorled fractures honesty and self-restraint. Those who love jade should be "true men" and confine their behavior according to the five virtues.

Everyday Jade

    Jade was a predominant feature of old Chinese society, as apparent in decorative articles, household utensils, and sacrificial vessels in well-to-do homes.

    Accessory jades were particularly popular, as in addition to its moral connotations, jade was also believed to be a powerful amulet. The customs of millennia became fashionable in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, particularly in the Ming when jade became a feature of the court dress. That worn by the emperor, empress, other members of the royal family and court officials denoted rank. Ming Dynasty jade accessories extant are mainly jade belts and hooks. During Qing times there was a wider scope that included sachets, flat hairpins, knuckle shields and belt hooks. The knuckle shield, originally a crossbow accessory, hooked on to the thumb. The most popular styles featured double-fish, heart or animal designs. Jade ornaments today are generally in the form of jewelry, such as bracelets and pendants.

    Hotan Jade and emeralds are most desirable in the current market, closely followed by Xiuyan Jade, Dushan Jade, lazurite and turquoise. Hotan Jade takes its name from its place of origin – Hotan in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, but is also found in Qinghai, Sichuan, Liaoning, Gansu and Taiwan provinces, as well as in Russia, Poland, Germany, the U.S., Canada and New Zealand. The best outside China is found in Russia.

A Hotan Jade decorated with dragons.

    The features that best distinguish Hotan Jade are its color and texture. There are white, green, blue, black, yellow, brown and flowery jades. The smoothest and most transparent is white jade, also called suet white jade. Hotan Jade is in huge demand on the market, but excessive exploitation threatens its continued supply.