The Many Enticements of Xijie
I stayed near the harbor in a hotel on Xijie, or West Street, Yangshuo’s most famous road. This little cobbled street is just a few minutes’ walk from end to end, and has been there almost as long as Yangshuo itself. It was built just a stone’s throw from the river, with the Gaoze and Bilian peaks rising up to its west.
I headed for the Liping Bar, which I had been told had the best view of the street, and sat down at an alfresco table on the second floor. As I sipped my hot ginger tea, I found myself able to enjoy a few moments of leisure in comfort and get a good look at the happenings in the street. Down at street level were all kinds of stalls and shops selling crafts, souvenirs and other stuff, bars and restaurants with menus in English and Chinese and a handful of family taverns in contrast to my idyllic experience on the river, the commercial atmosphere you can find in Lijiang in Yunnan Province or Nanluo-guxiang in Beijing pervaded the Liping bar.
Many of the names of the stores and restaurants on the street are inventive and raise a smile, like the No Food Restaurant, the Dimple Club, the Oops Chain Store, and Shanghai Old Stories. You could tell that storeowners have put a lot of work into their businesses and feel their passion and the uniqueness they bring to the premises. I was attracted to a draper shop named Cloth Whispers by the rhythmic clicking and clacking of the wooden loom by its door as a local woman sat weaving a length of cloth. Not far from this store were T-shirts with designs printed on them, and further down, handwarmers of homespun blue and white fabric were on display.
When night fell the rain stopped and Xijie seemed to waken from its drowsiness. Big red lanterns lit the way for passers-by. The bars were ready to welcome guests, offering an odd international mix of fresh corn juice, hot ginger tea, sesame paste, Italian ice cream and coffee to cheer them up after a long day of exploring the surrounding countryside.
Like Xingping, Xijie is full of contrasting modernity and antiquity, and every visitor can find something to their taste among its charms. Somehow offering both intimacy and a bustling atmosphere, it can make you feel at home, but at times also seems careless and cold. Such diverse qualities are what attract and enchant so many different kinds of people.
Tips:
1. The peak tourist season lasts from late March to early November. You can fly to Guilin, and then take a bus or taxi to Yangshuo. It is best to avoid the May Day and National Day Holidays, when accommodation and rafting is more expensive due to the increased number of travelers.
2. Rafting on the Lijiang and Yulong rivers are very different experiences. Make sure of the route and price beforehand.
3. Dress up warm in wintertime, especially when going rafting. The winter in the south of China is damp and cold.
4. Guilin rice noodles are highly recommended. Fresh fish from the Lijiang River and local free-roaming chickens are also worth a try.
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