Sacred Lake Baiku Co

Most houses in Karmainba Village are built with stone slabs.

Norbu Village

“Norbu” means a place between mountains and waters. This aptly describes the surroundings of the village, which faces Lham Co, flanked by bare rocky hills. The mountain shields it from strong winds, while the lake moistens the soil and air, creating a rare benign sub-climate good for both farming and herding. These favorable natural conditions allow for economic self-reliance, while poor transportation has cut it off the rest of the world – two factors contributing to the survival of Bon in its truest form here.

There are only about 30 households in this small community. Hewn rock steps at the village entrance lead to Lhapu Deqen Temple, a castle-like structure perched on a monolith with precipices on three sides. The village formerly lay next to the temple until 2009 when it was moved to the foot of the mountain.

On the roof of the temple people can enjoy the fine panoramas of the village, the lake and the snowy mountains nearby, composing breathtaking views of vibrant colors.

Lhapu Deqen, built in the 13th century, is also known as the shrine for lamas surnamed Ba. Ba is one of the six largest clans of Bon followers, and from generation to generation their reincarnations are revered by people in Norbu Village as Grand Master Basang. Portraits of generations of Basang are depicted in the murals of the temple, and regular celebrations are held to commemorate them.

The main hall of the 700-year-old temple is a double-quadrangle structure, with a larger room in front for meditation and chanting sutras, and the smaller room behind for circumambulation. The two spaces are divided by bookshelves and a niche.

The delicate frescos at the site are dated to the late 15th century or perhaps earlier – the oldest extant Bon art. They were among the most significant findings of the third national survey of cultural relics in 2009.

With the help of a villager, I found portraits of some Basangs – 13 generations of whom are said to have lived here. Though the Grand Master has not returned to this land in later reincarnations, the people of Norbu firmly adhere to the religion he preached, and venerate him faithfully in their hearts. Bon has become a distant memory in many other parts of Tibet.