Jianshui,a Historical Haven
Ubiquitous Ancient Wells
Old wells are scattered across Jianshui’s ancient alleys.
According to historical records, the oldest in Jianshui is the Liquan Well outside the east city gate, with a history of over 700 years. A 60-cm-high balustrade encircles the round well with a 90-cm-diameter opening. Two arcs formed by huge boulders shape a cylindrical edge around the well opening. Molten pig iron was poured into the grooves at the brims of the two arcs to fuse them securely.
The most famous well here would be the Daban Well, also known as the Pubo Well, boasting the biggest opening – more than three meters in diameter. Beside the well stands a temple where the Water Deity is worshipped. The well water is clear and soft. Tea made with it has a sweet taste, and tofu, such as the famous West Gate Tofu, made with the water is tender and delicious.
Other wells in the old town include Dragon Well, Red Well, Zhuge Well, Yonglian Well, and Yongning Well. Some have one opening, while others have two, three or four, a feature rarely seen in other places.
With these innumerable wells, Jianshui people have retained the town’s ancient and traditional lifestyle. To enjoy a cup of tea, water from the West Gate Well is boiled in a copper kettle. Otherwise, residents would not deem the tea satisfying.
Jianshui’s braised tofu enjoys a fine reputation, again ascribed perhaps to the excellent water used in making it. On old West Gate Street, the aroma of braised tofu wafts out through open wooden doors. Snack bars in Jianshui mainly sell foods made with tofu. Snacks famous in other parts of Yunnan, like rice noodles, are only side dishes here for braised tofu. Visitors from far and near usually enjoy a meal of braised tofu before leaving. This is the greatest delicacy.
Jianshui people’s love of wells is not only evident in the platforms erected to protect the wells, and ditches nearby to discharge wastewater, but also in keeping the well water clean, and not using bad language near a well.
Zhu Family Mansion
This is a private compound in southwestern frontier.
In ancient times, Yunnan was underdeveloped in terms of economy and culture due to its remoteness from China’s political and economic center. So it’s truly amazing to find such a big mansion with a style and grandeur even rivaling more famous counterparts in Suzhou and Hangzhou. Moreover, stories about this mansion are also myriad.
Let’s start with the history of the Zhu family. During the reign of Emperor Hongwu (1368-1398) in the Ming Dynasty, the Zhu ancestors migrated to Jianshui from Mayang County in Hunan Province. In the Emperor Tongzhi era (1862-1875) during the Qing Dynasty, Zhu Guangfu, then head of the family, began to buy land to build a residence and establish a distillery. From then on, the family began to flourish and expand. At that time, the tin industry in Gejiu south of Jianshui was booming. Taking advantage of the boom, the Zhu family raised funds to establish the company called “Zhuhengtai.” With business also expanding, they came to be known in southern Yunnan for tin mining, ore dressing and smelting. Meanwhile, some of the Zhu family descendants became juren (formerly, second-degree candidates in the provincial imperial examinations) and jinshi (formerly, third-degree candidates in the highest imperial exams) in succession, and launched official careers. The Zhu family soon became distinguished in the south and perhaps throughout Yunnan, with their businesses spanning farming, industry and commerce. It was therefore inevitable that the family built this large and magnificent mansion.
The entire mansion encompasses over 40 courtyards and over 200 rooms, all in an orderly layout. The 10 stilted buildings to the left of the main entrance facing the street hold the accounting house, and the venue to receive and distribute goods and materials – a crucial location for the family’s economic activity. To its right sits the Zhu clan’s ancestral hall. The exquisite pool in front of the hall is evidence of the privilege enjoyed by this large feudal family, with a theater over the water, and flowers and trees interspersed around pavilions. The scene fascinates visitors with its vibrant evocation of the family’s past offering ceremonies and entertainments. At the photo exhibition in the mansion, you may spot a slip of paper left by a lady of the family when learning poetry. With her teacher’s red correction marks still on it, the faded slip shows clearly the lady’s graceful handwriting.
Despite its power and prosperity, the Zhu family was unable to avoid its fate. In the first half of the 20th century, during cycles of wars and chaos, elite family members were executed, imprisoned, or fled into exile. After that, the family declined, only leaving this dazzling residence to posterity.
Compared to other ancient towns also enjoying a long history and maintaining ancient buildings, such as Lijiang and Dali full of jostling tourists, Jianshui has luckily escaped their uproar and pomp, while preserving an abundance of traditional customs and historical sites. The tranquil charm appeals to visitors, making them linger, unwilling to leave.
