Gods, Art and Ocean Life

Spiritual Sanctuary

Being so close to Gulangyu, we made the journey over to the islet. Compared to Zengcuo’an, it is overwhelmingly commercialized and overdeveloped. I left with a greater appreciation of the pristine beauty of Zengcuo’an.

On our return, the village seemed lost in a fissure of time and space, untouched by the tides of history. It is a world away from the city life bustling so close to it. Though modernity has crept into almost every corner of the planet, idyllic scenes still dominate here.

The first settlement in what later evolved into today’s Xiamen, Zengcuo’an was once the center of island life, evident in its diverse confluence of faiths. For over 1,000 years villagers have worshiped the sea goddess Matsu. They seek her protection for their daily fishing activities.

A Christian church is also nearby, where a pastor from Taiwan gives mass in the local dialect to an assembly of believers young and old. In the vicinity of the village are a Buddhist temple and Muslim tombs whose origins have been lost in time. It is remarkable that such a small community so successfully and respectfully tends to such diverse religious needs.

Artistic Colony

Now under a Xiamen commuter town where rents are much lower than those in the urban center, Zengcuo’an has seen an influx of migrants including both laborers and recent college graduates. With a pokey studio apartment, a small pub or a home shared with other like-minded tenants, they have made the village the first stop in their long and rough journey to achieve their dreams in the city.

Perhaps the most interesting arrival is that of the artists who have developed a vibrant artistic community that has become part of Zengcuo’an’s identity. Their touch can be seen everywhere, with walls and even fire hydrants adorned with murals and artistic graffiti, and posters for independent films crowding the village committee’s billboard. Their influence can also be detected in the whimsical names of the more than 100 eateries, inns and bars, each with its own personality, such as Dream Traveler and See You on Sunny Days, which shuts down when it rains.

When I heard about the government-funded commercial street that was under construction I was concerned for these unique businesses expressing the individual tastes and characters of their owners. But the rents suggested are reasonable and space has been set aside for artistic endeavors. The government won’t meddle with the natural flow of the local market.

This is a blessing, because it would be impossible to copycat the small businesses in Zengcuo’an without losing the ingenuity behind their details. The creative freedom of the village is why it has become a gem among China’s travel destinations, compared to the many Chinese beach resorts that have mirrored Gulanyu’s experience and lost their charm.

The Music Dream Traveler hostel surrounded by pawpaw trees.