By staff reporter LI YUAN

SEAT of the capitals of several dynasties and their splendid heritage, both tangible and intangible, Henan Province at the heart of the Central Plains is the acknowledged cradle of the Chinese civilization.

Visitors from China and the world over flock every year to such archeological sites as the Yin Ruins of the late Shang Dynasty (1600-1100 BC) capital, where quantities of bronze wares and oracle bones carved with the earliest form of Chinese writing have been excavated. Historical highlights also include the Longmen Grottoes, built between 493-907, Baima (White Horse) Temple, China’s first Buddhist shrine built in AD 68, and Shaolin Temple – China’s martial arts Mecca.

Fewer sightseers are aware, however, of Henan’s wealth of scenic attractions that include mountains with awe-inspiring bluffs, imposing waterfalls and snaking rivers through valleys, all of which rival the scenic delights of more mainstream tourist resorts. Yuntai Mountain in Jiaozuo City is just one. A national 5A scenic area covering 190 square kilometers, Yuntai is a world geopark, national forest park and rhesus monkey (Macaca mulatta) nature reserve. The relatively few visitors to Yuntai despite its close vicinity to Beijing make it a hot destination for the capital’s holidaymakers. Last summer I and a group of colleagues joined the stream of Beijingers intent on escaping the stifling heat and smog of urban metal and concrete in search of bucolic sanctuary.

   

Yuntai Mountain, a world geopark.

Wet Welcome

The train journey from Beijing to Jiaozuo takes eight hours. I found that the time flies by when traveling with a group of friends. Happily chatting with my companions and fellow passengers, I had no idea we had reached our destination until the train pulled into the station.

After we boarded a bus for the 30-kilometer drive to Yuntai Mountain, clouds dimmed the bright sunshine and rain began to fall in stair rods. We worried that it might ruin our carefully worked out schedule for the coming days, but the skies cleared after a couple of minutes and the sun reappeared. This climatic volatility brought to mind the folk saying in North China that summer weather is as unpredictable as a baby’s humor, which changes from tears to smiles in an instant.

We arrived at our hotel in the late afternoon and decided to treat ourselves to a lavish dinner after our long journey. Dishes featured well-known local Jiaozuo herbs and vegetables, such as Rehmannia (Rehmannia glutinosa Libosch), which can reduce blood sugar levels and alleviate pain and swelling, Ox Knee (Achyranthes bidentata), whose roots promote blood circulation, Bosom Chrysanthemum, whose flowers enhance liver functions and improve eye sight, and yams, highly recommended in Traditional Chinese Medicine for nourishing the lungs, kidneys and stomach. The species produced in Jiaozuo commonly known as the Steel Bar Yam is relatively thin with a dense texture. In the 16th century it was selected to present as a tribute to the imperial court.

The rain resumed after we retired for the night, and before falling asleep I offered up a prayer for clear weather.

Red Rock Valley

It seemed my prayer was answered, as I awoke the next morning to rays of sunshine. After breakfast we and other tourists boarded an electric bus bound for the mountain. Our first stop was the landmark Red Rock Valley.

As its name implies, the valley is a red sandrock formation. The region was part of a seabed before crustal movements in the Sinian Period 600 to 800 million years ago that elevated lands and created mountains. Its crimson hues result from the chemical reaction brought about by exposure to the elements of iron in the sandy sediment.

The valley is no place for anyone afflicted with acrophobia, as upon entering it the next step is to cross a natural stone bridge spanning two bluffs. Those who dare are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks and an emerald pool below. Rainfall the day before enhanced the red sheen of the vertical cliffs that contrasted dramatically with the lush vegetation springing out of their cracks and crevices. The calm water far below us appeared as a splash of crystal cyan mottled with glittering sparkles of sunshine and a medley of moving dots that reflected our party crossing the bridge.

The stream of tourists soon swelled, causing congestion on sharp turns and steep stairways. As rain had made the narrow path particularly slippery we advanced with extreme care, relaxing vigilance only after the zigzag trail reached the relatively even valley floor.

Red Rock Valley is a linear vale 2,000 meters long and 80 meters deep, measuring 10 meters at its broadest point and just three meters at its narrowest. This structure insulates the valley, effectively restricting North China’s standard four seasons to spring and autumn. The pool maintains a temperature all year round of around 10 degrees Celsius.

The sightseeing trail is carved into the cliffs at their midway point, their rocky walls determining its breadth and height. At some sections we had to stoop as we walked, and at others to squeeze sideways through narrow passes. At several points we thought we had met a dead-end until turning a corner to be greeted with the vista of a seemingly unexplored new world where the strip of sky overhead and dazzling spectacle of land far below gave us the feeling of walking in mid-air.

We saw en route numerous springs, waterfalls, pools and creeks. Glittering streams of water wind their way down the mountain, converging into larger flows and cascades halfway through their downward journey that leave verdant courses of moss against the red rock backdrop.

The trail was strewn with nine large pools, all named after dragons. In China this mythical creature is god of rain – the source of all bodies of water – and consequently associated with almost all rivers, lakes and seas in China. We saw in some pools park staff in skiffs, skimming off flotsam and jetsam. It occurred to me that working every day in such picturesque surroundings would be the ideal job.

A tour of the valley follows a one-way loop with no place for any extended mid-way pause. An hour and a half later we were back at the mouth of the valley. On our way to the bus I spotted a wild mulberry tree laden with ruby-colored fruits. I picked a few and found that they tasted far better than any to be bought at the supermarket. This 5A park is hence also a source of 5A fruits.

Zhuyu Peak

Our next destination was Zhuyu (Icacinaceae) Peak, a route that includes 19 tunnels cut over the decade 1977-1987 that span 4.8 kilometers over a fall of 912 meters. The steep incline due to the five-meter rise in altitude every 100 meters entails several switchbacks, which is why each tunnel incorporates a 180 degree angle turn.

Our driver seemed intent on demonstrating his motoring prowess by making these sharp bends at full speed.

We all felt lucky to survive the dare devil ride to the foot of the 1,308-meter-tall Zhuyu Peak – summit of Yuntai Mountain. A perilously narrow path consisting of 1,000 steps is the only way to the top. Although the prospect of the panoramic view from mountaintop was appealing, we were daunted by the climb and so opted for a less challenging itinerary. After taking photos and sampling local yam dim sums we left for the area cleaved by the Tanpu (pool waterfall), Quanpu (spring waterfall) and Mihou (rhesus monkey) valleys. Two routes traverse the area. That towards Tanpu Valley covers flatter terrains and includes several scenic spots over its 2,000-meter course and is relatively crowded. The other 3,000-meter course includes the magnificent Yuntai Waterfall, whose 314-meter fall is the largest in China.

On noticing at lunchtime an exodus of tourists from Tanpu Valley, we took the opportunity to walk through it unimpeded by crowds. The valley abounds in pools, springs and waterfalls along a one-way route that takes in optimum scenic spots.

We first came to Longshe (Dragon and Snake) Pool, where washing one’s hands is believed to flush away bad luck and bring good fortune. Its banks were consequently packed with people waiting to take a good luck rinse. The small cascades down the path are all named according to their shape, although not always accurately. As words often fail to capture the uncanny beauty that natural forces create it might be wiser simply to admire them rather than try to capture their essence in a name.

I joined the throngs filling their bottles with water from the Bulao Spring (Fountain of Eternal Youth). Having taken a drink, all I can do is wait in hope for a result.

On leaving Tanpu Valley, we headed for the national rhesus monkey nature reserve. Several colonies roam the region, but we only saw two lone apes at different locations. Accustomed to humans, they were unruffled by the stream of exiting tourists, and happily accepted food from them.

The main attraction of Quanpu Valley is its steep cascades culminating in the Yuntai Waterfall. Unfortunately the abnormally low rainfall earlier in the year depleted its water volume and hence its velocity.

It was around dusk when we descended the mountain. My legs were numb after a long day of climbing, but it was difficult to slow down on the downward path. Although reluctant to leave I knew it was unrealistic to try to see every scenic spot on Yuntai within a day. I fully intend to revisit it before long.

Tips:

Price: The admission fee is RMB 210 during the peak season from April to October and RMB 120 from November to March, but the scenery is enchanting in its way all year round. Summer visitors are advised to bring at least one sweater as the temperature plummets at night and remains low through till midday. One ticket is valid for two days, but for a single entry only at each scenic spot. Visitors should arrange itineraries according to specific physical conditions.

Food and drink: There are stores at the entrance and exit to every scenic area, and the walk normally takes at least an hour, so be sure to take adequate food and water before starting out.

Transport: Yuntai Mountain is easily accessible from Beijing by bus, train or car. Train travelers can get off either at Jiaozuo or Xiuwu, and change for a shuttle to the mountain. There is a special tour line between Beijing and Yuntai leaving each Friday night and arriving the next morning– a choice that saves on hotel expenses.

Neighboring attractions: Those who have time to spend longer in Henan Province are strongly advised to visit such iconic historical sites as the Longmen Grottoes, White Horse Temple and Shaolin Temple.