Chengdu Life in the Slow Lane
Old Alleys and Towns
Another good reason to visit Chengdu is to wander through the old town’s warren of alleyways. For the aspiring tourist, it’s best to visit sooner, rather than later: with the heady speed of urban construction, many old streets and alleys are gradually vanishing. Some, including Wenmiao Street and Daosangshu Street, have been set aside for preservation.
Arguably the most famous old walkway in Chengdu is Kuanzhai Alley; that’s also here to stay. Today the alley is blocked to traffic; walkers have free rein.
Kuanzhai Alley is made up of three segments – the Kuan, Zhai and Jing alleys, which were connected as part of one, long alleyway in the Qing Dynasty. As one of the symbols of Chengdu, Kuanzhai has resisted the changes that have transformed other parts of the urban landscape. Parts of the alley have been renovated and restored, but its authenticity has been maintained to this day.
Jinli Street is another well-known old street, though it differs vastly from Kuanzhai Alley. Adjacent to the Wuhou Shrine, Jinli is a busy commercial street with a long history. Visitors who aren’t there to barter can find plenty to do in the street’s bars, cafes, handicraft stores and local guesthouses.
There are many well-preserved old towns in the suburbs of Chengdu. They are spots for rest and relaxation, and seem a world away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. Perhaps the most scenic among them is Huanglongxi Town, which was voted the most beautiful old town in Sichuan in 2012.
The Huanglongxi Town is bifurcated by the fast-running Fuhe River. Several iron suspension bridges straddle the river, linking the two halves of the small town together. On one riverbank stands an ancient banyan tree with twisted roots. It is said the tree has a history of nearly 1,000 years. Today, many of the town’s families have lived there for generations – although perhaps not quite as long as their banyan tree neighbor. Locals earn a living in tourism: they run street-front stores selling snacks and souvenirs, and reside in backyard rooms.
Huanglongxi has many traditions that it calls its own, but perhaps the most peculiar of all is the Fire Dragon Dance. During the first half of the first month of the lunar calendar, 20 strapping young men strip from the waist up in the town center to perform the traditional dance routine, which employs fireworks to spectacular effect. The dance has to be seen to be believed.
Historical Figures and Today’s New Stars
More than 2,000 years of history has left an indelible mark on the cultural heritage of Chengdu, which was capital of Shu (221-263) during the Three Kingdoms Period. According to local government statistics there are a total of 127 sites of cultural significance under national protection in the city.
Chengdu’s history is still alive; Chengdu residents can recall the stories of the historic figures that once called the city home.
Zhuge Liang (181-234) is undoubtedly the foremost representative of the culture of the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280). He is recognized as a great strategist, politician and inventor. He has also become a national symbol of Chinese wisdom. An idiom still in popular use today describes one who is very smart as being “capable enough to compete with Zhuge Liang.” The Wuhou Shrine in Chengdu is a memorial hall for Zhuge Liang. As one of the three most influential museums specializing in the culture of the Three Kingdoms Period, it attracts millions of tourists every year.
The Du Fu Thatched Cottage grounds in Chengdu include a park and museum. The complex was reconstructed in honor of Du Fu (712-770), one of China’s greatest poets. It is said that Du Fu moved to Chengdu to escape the turbulence of war. There, he built a thatched hut near the picturesque Huanhua Creek and lived there for four years, writing more than 200 poems during the period. After extensive renovations over the past centuries, today Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage doesn’t really bear any resemblance to the original. However, strolling around the cottage and appreciating its elegance and the surrounding scenery, visitors find it a wonderful spot to spend an afternoon and pay tribute to Du Fu. In total, the bard left over 1,000 poems to the future generations.
Another well-known story from Chengdu’s history concerns the romance between the famous writer Sima Xiangru (179-118 BC) and Zhuo Wenjun, a beautiful and clever widow. Wenjun fell in love with Sima Xiangru’s literary talent, won him over and eloped with him against the wishes of her family. They moved to Chengdu and made a living running a liquor store on Qintai Street.
Today’s Qintai Street is no longer the small alley paved with blue stones it once was. But a one-kilometer-long brick carving by the road offers visitors some clues to the customs and traditions of the Han Dynasty over 2,000 years ago. The carvings display many ancient rituals, including those related to banquets, singing, dancing and hunting.
History doesn’t stop in the past; it is made every single day. Today, Chengdu continues to produce famous alumni, particularly in the entertainment industry. Chengdu natives Li Yuchun, Zhang Liangying and Zhang Jie, for instance, are among the best-selling pop singers in China. Who knows, maybe Chengdu residents will be telling their stories for another 2,000 years to come.
