By SUSAN TRIMBLE

Jataka Story of a Generous Giver.

CAPTIVATING Kuqa in the heart of Chinese Turkestan has stolen my heart. Luck has found me twice heading for this small county located in Aksu prefecture on the rail line that connects Urumqi to Kashgar. Halfway between the oases of Kashgar and Turpan, Kuqa county seat has been a considerable trading center since ancient times.

Hsuan Tsang in the 7th century said "Kiuchi Kingdom is from east to west some thousand li or so; from north to south about 600 li. The soil is suitable for rice and corn, also it produces grapes, pomegranates, and numerous species of plums, pears, peaches, and almonds, also grow here. The ground is rich in minerals - gold, copper, iron, and lead and tin. The air is soft, and the manners of the people honest...They excel other countries in their skill in playing on the lute and pipe."

And such is Kuqa County today.

The terrain of the Kuqa valley is cragged. Historically a magnificent setting for solitary pursuits such as religious retreat and study, it is today a perfect subject for a photo shoot extraordinaire. Located in the area where the Tianshan Mountains kiss the oil-rich Taklamakan, the Kuqa valley is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen.

Jataka Story of Merchants at Sea.

The Kuqa river valley is sometimes called Demon's Ravine. The landforms here are called 'yardang' and they are awesome to say the least! Formed by thousands of years of wind erosion, splinters of barren russet colored rock seem to leap from the foothills of the Qoltag Mountains. As you enter the windy ravine, menacing mountains confront you. There is no sign of life here. The rocky spurs and overhanging ledges seemingly reach out to grab you like wicked fingers. Feeling almost overwhelmed with the strangeness, suddenly ... you are in a quiet grassy plain where camels roam towards the Muzart River and on to the great caves of Kuqa.

Kuqa is full of Buddhist cave sites and ancient ruins. The Kizil and Kumtura caves, both situated on the Muzart River contain 3rd and 4th century treasures of fresco painting. Other reasonably well known sites include the Kizilgaha, Simsim, Mazabehe grottos, Kizilgaha Beacon Tower, Subashi Temple ruins as well as the ancient city ruins of Pilang. Many sites in the Kuqa area remain unexplored and undocumented.

During 2nd century BC, Buddhism came to present-day Xinjiang via the Silk Road. Quici (Kuqa) was the crossroad of the great cultures of India, Persia, Greece and China. Local painters selected elements of each and combined them to make a distinct Quici painting style.

The Kizil Caves.

Normally built in remote mountainous terrain near rivers, Buddhist cave sites provided quietude and encouragement for ascetic discipline, two of the requisite components of a Buddhist life.

Kuqa area caves were constructed following the Indian style of a central pillar with one major difference - the pillar was not separated from the cave ceiling. The chamber in front of the pillar (called the central chamber) was largest and had good light. The rear chamber located behind the pillar was dark and small, sometimes only big enough for one circumambulating believer at one time. Nirvana scenes remain evident in the rear chambers of some of the caves.

The central chamber normally had a niche with a statue or painting of Buddha preaching the Law. On either side of the Buddha you would find disciples while above would be musicians, single or in pairs, and flying apsaras. On the high walls of the chamber you would find diamond patterns each with a separate painting depicting previous incarnations of Buddha, Jataka stories, Karma or cause and result stories, and so on. Sequential narrative stories of the life of Buddha from birth to death and Buddha's deeds after enlightenment cover the central walls and area over the doorway. There may also be exquisite paintings of Maitreya preaching and of monks in meditation. In the apex of the ceiling called the "Heavenly Vault", a complete representation of heaven showing the moon, the sun, the gods of fire and wind, and the Garuda, Protector of Buddhist Faith can still be found in many caves. Sometimes the white rabbit in the moon and the horse chariots with the sun have been included.

Fine Fresco Detail.

As well as religious topics, the caves have hundreds of scenes of daily life. Music, dance, trading caravans, architecture, costumes, hairstyles are vividly depicted in the murals. Pottery making, weaving, soldiering, hunting and farming scenes teach us exactly what life was like in the Quici Kingdom so long ago. Even examples of extinct languages are evident.

In ancient times donors financed the construction and decoration of many caves. Some remain anonymous, but the memory of others has remained "alive" because of the marvelously detailed murals describing the family, its achievements and its rewards.

The ancient Quici Kingdom was a bridge between the east and western cultures and thus represents the history of Xinjiang. Buddhism came, it thrived and it was replaced by Islam. The caves and ruins of Quici were witness to it all.

The caves at the Kizil site are thought to be the largest and the oldest in China. Kizil was actually a monastery made up of different kinds of caves, some for meditation and residence, others for religious teaching and worshipping the Buddha, and yet others for burial of the relics of eminent monks.

Kumtura is about a century younger, also situated on the Muzart River facing the mountains in the distance - perfect for meditation.

Chauhuli (Subashi) was a temple or convent site, situated on two mountain slopes separated by a stream.

Kizilgaha cave site is quite small but relatively intact. The Han beacon tower nearby still waits to sound the attack alarm.

The state and local governments currently protect these places as important heritage sites. A small amount of money is allocated for preservation; however, additional monies are badly needed to update research techniques, build research libraries, and to further educate young scholars.

In Kuqa county there is an elderly man and a young scholar who have "mapped" the ancient pilgrims route that once connected all these sites.

I dream of walking this route one day. Perhaps I will discover another great Kuqa cave!

Today in Kuqa. Kuqa Kuche was known as Quici/Kuichi Kingdom in ancient times. The recorded history of the Quici Kingdom begins about 200 BC, during the Western Han period. An oasis rich in natural resources, Quici became a major trade, political and cultural hub, and later, an important Buddhist center in Turkestan. Today, Kuqa thrives as a somewhat smaller county, economically poor, historically rich, still full of honest people with unique musical talents. Kuqa anticipates future rewards from the deep underground resources that the Taklamakan Desert is offering in the form of oil. Sentinels of religious faith stand bleak guard against the hydrocarbon treasures beneath the desert. How fitting for the riches below to contribute to the preservation of the cultural heritage above. How fitting to be a Kuqa donor. For information on how you can help to establish a Quici Research Center Trust Fund, please write to the author in care of this magazine.