MANY people have heard the name Wuyishan (Wuyi Mountain), but few really know anything about it. Those who first set eyes on the Wuyishan site might think its being classified merely as a mountain falls far short of doing it justice, as the river girding it is no less impressive than the mountain itself. Wuyi Mountain is in northwestern Fujian Province, bordering Jiangxi Province. It encompasses a scenic retreat and a nature reserve and is imbued with a wealth of natural beauty and cultural interest. Its natural splendor has resulted in the city under whose jurisdiction the mountain falls also being named Wuyishan. This is the only city in Fujian Province to have been named after a mountain, and has been listed among the first group of excellent tourist cities in China.

Many Chinese emperors, particularly those of the Qing Dynasty, enjoyed making secret trips out from the Forbidden City to southern China. In contrast to the dry, vast and desolate wastes of northern China, the delightful scenery and mild climate of the south could induce and maintain high spirits. None of the emperors, however, visited the Wuyi Mountain wonderland. As this area was so distant from the imperial palace it was, in ancient times, considered barbarian and to be surrounded by dense miasma-exuding woods. It was therefore designated by the imperial court as suitable for exile only.

The literati, however, were fascinated by the splendor of the Wuyi Mountain scenery. Some went to live there, and others for a short stay. Zhu Xi, a famous Song philosopher of the rationalistic Confucian (or Neo-Confucianism) school, went to Wuyi Mountain at the age of 14 and stayed there, writing and teaching, until his death at the age of 71. Many poets also found inspiration at Wuyi Mountain. Today, remains of ancient towns and villages, and ancient, boat-shaped coffins suspended over cliffs, can still be seen around Wuyi Mountain. The remoteness, mystery, unique local customs, and rich tourism resources of the area have drawn countless visitors. In December 1999, Wuyi Mountain was officially designated a world natural and cultural heritage site.

Wuyi Mountain is divided into four reserves, according to its different physical features: the western bio-diversity area; the central Jiuqu (Nine-Bend) River ecological area; the eastern natural and cultural sights area; and the city remains of the Minyue Kindom at Chengcun. The western region of the mountain constitutes an important link in the drive for global bio-diversity preservation, while the eastern part displays the beauty of mountains and rivers, and, with its abundant scenic spots and historic and cultural sites, is testament to the harmony between nature and human civilization. The central area not only links the western and eastern parts, but also conserves the source of the Jiuqu River, and is therefore crucial for eco-environmental protection.

Nature

The Wuyi Mountain Scenic Area covers 70 square kilometers. Its average altitude is 300-400 meters above sea level, and its distinctive topography integrates mountain peaks and streams into a harmonious whole. Its main points of interest include the nine bends of the river, 36 peaks, 72 caves, and 99 characteristic rocks scattered over 108 scenic spots.

The Nine-bend River links up the 36 peaks and 99 rocks into a picturesque vista. The river, 62.8 kilometers long, originates in the dense forest of western Wuyi Mountain. The river water is plentiful and crystal clear. Drifting downstream on a bamboo raft, one can take a slow cruise around the mountain. Amidst the green trees, and colorful flowers growing in gullies on the banks of the river are pavilions, towers, and other ancient structures.

The Wuyi Mountain National Nature Reserve, 567 square kilometers in area, extends from the scenic area. It is the world's finest oasis at this latitude. The forest coverage is 95.3 percent, and rich vegetation has provided a congenial ecological environment for the survival and proliferation of wild animals. The area is known as a "biological specimen producer" and "key to the study of amphibious reptiles in Asia." It is also dubbed the "Kingdom of Snakes," "Bird Paradise," "the World of Insects," "the Biological Window of the World," and "the Natural Botanical Garden." In 1992, UNESCO listed it a global bio-diversity demonstrative protection zone.

Culture

Wuyi Mountain is famous not only for its natural scenery, but also for its rich, diversified and unique cultural heritage.

The ancient Yue people in southeastern China inhabited the area as early as the Neolithic Age. The boat-shaped coffins of the Yue people can still be seen suspended over the cliffs at several spots within the scenic area, as well as the remains of plank paths. Some 3,800 years ago, Wuyi Mountain was a site favored by devotees of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism, and their temples as recorded in historic records numbered 187.

The beautiful scenery of Wuyi Mountain attracted many of the ancient literati. Zhu Xi, a Neo-Confucianist of the Southern Song Dynasty, lived here for over half a century. He was considered the greatest thinker, philosopher and educator of the post-Confucian era. This great man is the reason why Wuyi Mountain became the cradle of New-Confucianism, which is now studied by both Chinese and foreign scholars. The Zhu Xi Memorial Hall on the mountain is therefore an ideal place to trace the development of Neo-Confucianism and its founder. There are also many other sites on the mountain associated with Neo-Confucianism.

The Minyue was a local regime in southeastern China during the Western Han Dynasty over 2,000 years ago. The city remains of the kingdom are located at Wuyishan's Chengcun, where the royal family and nobles lived adjacent to common village residences. This is a remarkably well preserved site, and has yielded more artifacts than any other Han-Dynasty city remains in South China. The ancient ceramic water pipeline system found in the remains of the royal palace is the only one of its kind so far to have been discovered. The indoor bathing pool, equipped with a complete water supply and drainage system, was also the earliest to be installed in a Chinese palace. An ancient well inside the city remains still provides potable water. A large amount of earthenware utensils and building materials have also been excavated at the site, many of which bear ancient inscriptions.

Ancient dwellings form an important part of the Wuyi Mountain ancient culture. Xiamei Village is an example. Located 15 kilometers southeast of the city proper, the village encompasses a large number of late Qing Dynasty houses that display fine taste and particularity in both their architectural structure and decorative detail. Their facade is usually decorated with patterns of flowers, birds, landscapes and human figures. The main structure is of wood, and the high walls are painted with colorful pictures. Like many southern villages, a small river runs through the village, and houses line its banks. An old tree trunk lies by the riverside, where villagers sit and chat.

Rock tea is an indispensable aspect of Wuyi Mountain culture and tourism, and teahouses are everywhere in the city of Wuyishan. The distinctness of the local tea culture is reflected not only in the tea sets used, but also in the special ritual followed in the making and drinking of tea.

It is said that the high quality of the local tea deserves such meticulousness. Rock tea grows in sandy soil on rocks shrouded by clouds high up on Wuyi Mountain. It grows without the aid of artificial fertilizers, instead absorbing the natural nutriments from the earth and the air. Different approaches to preparing the tea result in different tastes, and even different functionality of its leaves.

The local people have blended their tea culture into tourism. The best known rock tea is Dahongpao, with which many legends are associated. One tells of how Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty once fell seriously ill, and how no amount of medicine could relieve his suffering, until he was sent rock tea from Wuyi Mountain. The emperor drank it and soon recovered. He then took off his red robe and had it sent over to Wuyi Mountain to cover the tea plant, hence its name, which in Chinese means "Big Red Robe."

According to the local tourism administration, Dahongpao grows at the top of the cliff at the Jiulongke Gully, where there is little disparity of climate, and where water drips down from the cliff all year round. There are just four Dahongpao tea plants that produce no more than a few kilos of tea a year. The rarity of this tea has resulted in the Dahongpao growing site becoming a tourist destination.

Tour Route and Destination Guide

Mountain climbing, rafting on the river, sightseeing, and visiting ancient sites are the activities that characterize Wuyi Mountain tours.

Tianyou Peak is the first choice for climbing. Located at the center of the scenic area, it has stone steps leading to the summit, which is 700 meters above sea level. Here, visitors are surrounded by clouds as they take in a panoramic view of the Nine-Bend River girdling the peaks below them.

Ling Rock, or Yixiantian (A Shot of Sky), demonstrates the master craftsmanship of nature. The rock is like a huge wall lying across a broad gully. Tourists enter the rock through Fuxi Cave, feel their way through the chill, dark, eeriness, and emerge at a spot where the rock opens out neatly to a stretch over 100 meters in length, one meter in breadth, and at a height of dozens of meters. When looking up from the opening, a narrow strip of sky can be seen at the tips of the vertical rocks that tower on both sides.

Rafting along the Nine-Bend River is the most popular cruise. The raft is about two meters wide and eight meters long, and is made of eight or nine bamboo poles. Six bamboo chairs are affixed to the raft. As tourists cruise along for the length of 10 kilometers and enjoy the kaleidoscopic scenery, the rafter tells stories about the peaks and the river.

The most thrilling river cruise is to float down Tongmuxi Gully at the upper reaches of the Nine-Bend River. This stretch of water is 14 kilometers long, with a drop of 2.8 meters at its highest point. Tourists may sail in a rubber boat and drift down over rapids or along a gentle stream.

The boat-shaped coffins suspended over the cliffs are a major sightseeing spectacle. Although the wooden planks have rotted and rendered these "boats" misshapen, the sight of them still conjures up a feeling of mysticism.

The trip back tracking to antiquity takes one to ancient residences at Xiamei, the Han Dynasty city ruins, and the Wufuxingxian Academy of Classic Learning, which are all relevant to the ancient culture and folklore of the area.

Routes for Reference:

One-day Tour:

Yunwo, Tianyou Peak and Taoyuan Cave in the morning; the Nine-Bend River and Wuyi Palace in the afternoon.

Two-day Tour:

Day One: Wuyi Palace, Dawang Peak, Zhizhi Nunnery and Shuiguang Rock in the morning; the Nine-Bend River and the imperial tea garden in the afternoon.

Day Two: Yunwo, Tianyou Peak and Taoyuan Cave in the morning; Huxiao Rock and Yixiantian in the afternoon.

Those who stay for more than two days are recommended to take the following additional trips.

Day Three: Shuilian Cave, Yingzui Rock, Liuxiang Valley and Dahongpao in the morning; Lianhua Peak and Yulin Pavilion in the afternoon.

Day Four: The Han Dynasty city remains, and Chengcun folklore in the morning; Tongmuxi drifting in the afternoon.

Day Five: The Wuyi Mountain Canyon Ecology Park and the Tongtian River Waterfall.

Day Six: The Wuyi Mountain Nature Reserve and Mount Huanggang.

Prices for Reference:

Admission to the scenic area is 111 yuan. Separate tickets are as follows: 62 yuan for Yunwo and Wuyi Palace, 22 yuan for Shuilian Cave and Dahongpao, 22 yuan for Yixiantian and Huxiao Rock, and 20 yuan for Lianhua Peak and Yulin Pavilion.

For rafting on the Nine-Bend River, each raft costs 425 yuan, and seats six people, or 71 yuan per person for a cruise of 9.5 kilometers at around an hour and a half.

Drifting at Tongmuxi costs 80 yuan per person for a length of 7 kilometers for an hour and a half.

Hotels:

Wuyishan has four three-star hotels: Wuyi Mountain Villa (Tel: 0599-5251888), the Yunu Hotel (0599-5252988), Wuyishan Guomao Hotel (Tel: 0599-5252521), and Wuyishan Youdian Hotel (Tel: 0599-5252888).

Travel Agencies:

Wuyishan Fengguang International Service Company Ltd.,(Tel: 0599-5253536)

Wuyishan Aviation Travel Service (Tel: 0599-5106896)

Memo:

* The best months to tour Wuyi Mountain are April and May, though other months are also good for a trip. It is better to stay for a few days and take in the sights at a comfortable pace. Wuyi Mountain is suitable for trips following the standard routes and also for private excursions into the mountain.

* As it is damp on the mountain, it is advisable to wear light, quick-drying clothes for a trip in summer.

* There are tea shops at every scenic spot, where the quality of tea is equal to that sold in the city, and prices are reasonable. However, for a full scope of choice, a visit to the tea plantation is best.

* Tourism management is first class at Wuyi Mountain. All the tour guides, attendants at scenic sites, and rafters have undergone rigorous training.

* When going rafting at Tongmuxi, tourists should bring along a change of clothes and not take along cameras and other objects that are not waterproof. It is best to wear thick cotton clothes, as polyester becomes very cold when wet.

By staff reporter LI XIA