Where
Do Old Military Ships Go?
By
INESA PLESKACHEUSKAYA

Aircraft carrier - Shenzhen's tour
hot spot. |
Ask any of the seven million people living
in Shenzhen what Minsk is, and they will answer promptly: "It
is a Russian military ship, an excellent attraction. "
When I ask this question, two more naturally follow: why does
this ship have such a name and what does Minsk mean? These questions
are not that easy to answer. The word vessel makes sense, but
why Minsk? People don't understand and ask me, "Does it
matter?"
For me it does make a difference. I came to
China from Minsk. Not from the military vessel of course but
from the real Minsk, capital of Belarus, after which the ship
was named, and known as city of heroes in the Soviet era. Isn't
it a pity that people visiting this popular tourist attraction
in Shenzhen know virtually nothing about my city or my country?
And this is despite motifs of Minsk the city and Belarus appearing
everywhere onboard the vessel! One can even buy my country's
banknotes for RMB25. They are popular souvenirs for Chinese
tourists despite no longer being valid currency, as are lighters,
pens, and key rings bearing the name Minsk in Cyrillic script,
and Soviet symbols.

Soviet material on exhibit. |
The Minsk is a Soviet aircraft carrier-cruiser
of the second generation. It was built between 1972 and 1978
as part of the USSR Navy Pacific Fleet. The USA and its No 7
Fleet regarded the Minsk, its main adversary in the Pacific
during the 'cold war,' with respect and caution.
On the collapse of the Soviet Union and dismantling
of weapons the cruiser was put into dry dock. Shortly afterwards
a Chinese company bought and reconstructed this Soviet military
vessel, and it is now one of the main tourist attractions in
China's youngest and most affluent city, Shenzhen. On being
asked how he resolved the problem of the city's lack of attractions
Shi Xiongbiao, director of the Shenzhen Tourism Administration,
answered: "When we lack tourist attractions, we either
build or buy them," and gave the Minsk as an example.

Soviet Mig Fighter plane. |
To attract tourists, organizers decided to
exhibit a military ship as it would be in actual wartime conditions.
The atmosphere of that time is carefully recreated. The world's
two longest torpedoes, around 5 meters long and made in the
USSR, are on display, and inscriptions in Russian are everywhere,
accompanied by Chinese translations. On the walls are photos
of life on the Minsk at the time of its actual military service:
sailors operating torpedoes, laughing, doing exercises, eating
dinner . A friend who now lives in Minsk was once in the crew
of this vessel. When he knew I was going to visit the cruiser
he asked me to send his best regards to the ship. This I did
with joy and pleasure, as it is part of the history of my two
native countries -- the Soviet Union where I was born and Belarus
where I live.
But let's go back to the Minsk World. The
take-off and landing runways are on the vast upper deck that
has the surface area of three combined football fields. Today
it is the main exhibition area for military equipment. On the
forward deck are four installations for ship-ship missile launches
that are capable of launching eight long-range anti-ship missiles
simultaneously.
Visitors can also see the famous Soviet MiG-23
aircraft-fighter, two Mi-24 military helicopters and Chinese
military aircraft. When the Minsk was an active military vessel
this deck would hold 42 aircraft simultaneously.

A nautically clad tour guide. |
The ship-air guided missiles are on the second
deck. Automatic installations launched these missiles working
on the principle: open a lid-aunch a missile. The Russian Army
still uses missiles of this type. The Russian inscription: Danger
to Life is still in place on the lid.
The sailors' and captain's cabins have been
restored. Frankly, the captain's cabin left me with mixed feelings,
and I am not alone in this respect as practically all people
of the former Soviet Union feel the same. The wax model of the
captain in white uniform, holding a wine glass and surrounded
by matreshkas (sets of hollow decorated wooden doll figures
of differing sizes, each one made so as to nest inside the next
largest) and portraits of Stalin and Lenin, looks a little like
a caricature. Is this the image of a formidable Soviet sea wolf
that the Chinese organizers wish to promote?
I am sure they meant nothing offensive; their
main purpose is to entertain visitors, as confirmed by Mr. Wang
Pu, vice general manager of the park. On my asking whether it
is hard to manage such a big military vessel, he replied: "For
us it is not the military cruiser, but the Entertainment Park
that should generate income." The Minsk World has certainly
paid its way, having earned more than US $60 million in three
years, easily surpassing the investment in its establishment.
In one of the hangars are six special centrifuges
where any tourist brave enough can experience a state of weightlessness.
As for myself, I don't have the courage. Also in this hangar
are bars, live music and a Russian song and dance troupe that
entertains visitors throughout the day.
Years ago the aircraft carrier Minsk was dubbed
Peril of the Seas, but now anybody willing to pay RMB120 can
visit it. This is quite a high admission fee in China, but there
is still a strong fascination for this attraction named after
my native city. "Where do you come from?" is a question
I have been asked often in China. In Shenzhen my answer "From
Minsk" brings the incredulous response: "Do you live
on the ship?" No, I say, there are two Minsks - one that
is mine and one that belongs to the Chinese.
INESA PLESKACHEUSKAYA:
Beijing bureau chief of the Belarusian national newspaper Belarus
Today and the national TV channel ONT.