Han Dynasty pottery warriors and horses.	Yunlong Park in autumn.	The Han Dynasty Stone Reliefs Museum.

THERE is a Chinese saying about the ancient city of Xuzhou: “Beijing is famous for its Ming and Qing cultures, Xi’an is famous for its Qin and Tang cultures, while Xuzhou is famous for its Han culture.” With a rich and varied history, visitors to Xuzhou will discover a priceless assortment of Han Dynasty pottery warriors and horses, tombs and stone reliefs, and will hear riveting tales of the many historical figures who made the city famous. Among them was Pengzu (circa 2,000 B.C.), who is widely considered to be the founder of Chinese culinary culture, and who lived in what was then known as Pengcheng.

The state of Peng lasted 800 years, and ever since the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280) the names of Xuzhou and Pengcheng have been used interchangeably. To this day in Xuzhou, everything from streets to periodicals are named after Pengcheng — such as Pengcheng Road, Pengcheng Square, and the Pengcheng Evening News.

A History Carved out of the Mountains

Pengcheng’s long history produced a treasure trove of cultural achievements, and they have been preserved through the centuries to bestow on present-day Xuzhou a splendid historical and cultural legacy. Song of the Great Wind, a poem by Liu Bang, founding emperor of the Han Dynasty, speaks of the city’s importance. It reads: “A great wind rises, The clouds are driven away. I come to my native land, Now the world is under my sway. Where can I find brave men, To guard my four frontiers today!”

Emperor Liu Bang, a native of Xuzhou, was the ancient city’s most famous native son, and many aspects of Chinese culture were named after the Han Dynasty he founded — such as Hanzi (Chinese characters), Hanzu (the Han ethnic group), Hanyu (the Chinese language) and Han wenhua (the Han culture). As the leader of a popular uprising against the tyrannical Qin Dynasty, he established the Han Empire, and Xuzhou became the repository of Han civilization.

In October of 202 B.C. Liu Bang ascended the throne in Dingtao, in Shandong Province. He first established his capital in Luoyang, and later in Chang’an (present-day Xi’an), and he forged a strong, united Han Empire. Together with the Roman Empire, it became one of the two most powerful empires the world had yet seen. British historian Arnold Toynbee (1889-1975) said: “The two most far-sighted and influential political figures in the history of mankind are Caesar, who founded the Roman Empire, and Liu Bang, who founded the Han Empire.” After Liu Bang ascended the throne, Xuzhou was made the hereditary fiefdom of the Liu clan, which carved its tombs out of the surrounding mountainsides. To this day, the mountains surrounding Xuzhou City are honeycombed with tombs and subterranean palaces.

Modern archeological surveys have uncovered more than 200 tombs from the Western Han Dynasty period around downtown Xuzhou, and their layout and construction continue to elicit universal admiration for the sophistication of these ancient people. Most impressive is the fact that many of the tombs excavated so far were prepared in a variety of different styles, with the most typical being the Han Dynasty tomb at Guishan (Tortoise Mountain), and the Mausoleum of Prince Chu at Shizi (Lion) Mountain.

The Han Dynasty tomb at Guishan is located on the western slope of the mountain, in Jiuli District, Xuzhou City. It was the tomb of Liu Zhu, the sixth-generation Prince Chu of the Western Han Dynasty, and his wife, and it was discovered by local residents quarrying for stone in 1981. In the same year, archeologists excavated the tomb and its north passageway, and a 1985 survey of its cultural artifacts uncovered a silver seal with a knob in the shape of tortoise, which revealed the identity of the deceased.

Since its discovery and excavation, more than 20 years have passed, but many mysteries remain unsolved.

Mystery 1: The tunneling of mountain caves.

The Han Dynasty tomb at Guishan Mountain is a typical cliff cave tomb. Its 15 chambers and two passages cover an area of 700 square meters, with a total volume of 2,600 cubic meters. The entire mountain has in effect been hollowed out. To dig such enormous chambers halfway up a mountain could be compared to building the Egyptian pyramids. How did Han Dynasty craftsmen master the geology and topography of the mountain to ensure the project’s success?

Mystery 2: The accuracy of the passages’ design and construction.

The entrance to the tomb is on the western side of Guishan Mountain. The tomb has two passages to its north and south, and each is 56 meters long, 1.78 meters high, and 1.06 meters wide. Their maximum deviation from the central axis is 5 millimeters, with a precision approaching 1/10000. Were they to be extended westward, the two lines would meet at Xi’an 1,000 kilometers away. The walls on both sides of the passages are as smooth as glass. How were such passages tunneled, given the technological level of that time?

Mystery 3: Cliff silhouette images.

On the north wall of Prince Chu’s coffin chamber is a life-size silhouette that appears to be of the prince wearing a high-topped hat and a broad waistband (the attire of Han Dynasty nobles), with one hand cupped in the other and raised to his chest, as if greeting guests. The image, however, was not carved at the time of Prince Chu’s burial, but inexplicably appeared only after the tomb was opened to the public. Adding to the mystery, the stone wall shows no sign of water seepage that could have resulted in the image. Some hold that it was formed as a result of the different textures of the rock, but why did it appear specifically in Prince Chu’s final resting place?

Mystery 4: An atlas of constellations.

In the coffin chamber and front hall and on the stone pillars of Princess Chu’s tomb chamber are nipple-shaped stone knobs in irregular arrangements. They are not decorations, archeologists have assured us. Some believe that they are an atlas of the constellations. Others claim they prove Prince Chu was an incarnation of a heavenly star. But in Prince Chu’s tomb chamber there are no such stone knobs. So the two hypotheses cannot be reconciled. What are they, after all?

The Han Dynasty tomb at Guishan Mountain attracts countless visitors from home and abroad, and its mysteries are waiting to be explored.

The Mausoleum of Prince Chu at Shizi (Lion) Mountain is in the eastern suburbs of Xuzhou. Although the tomb had been desecrated in ancient times, more than 2,000 exquisite artifacts were nevertheless unearthed, many of them the first such discoveries in the country. Archeologists successfully recreated Prince Chu’s likeness based on his skeletal remains, and the site was named one of China’s top 10 archeological discoveries in 1995.

The mausoleum, with Shizi Mountain at its back and facing the Sishui River, was considered a local treasure by the city’s early inhabitants. Entering the exhibition hall, visitors descend the stairs to the tomb passage. Along the outer passage, which is 27.6 meters long, one can see block stones with clear signs of chiseling used to fill the passages. There has been speculation that Prince Chu was buried hastily, and many people believe that the owner of the tomb was actually Liu Shu, the third-generation Prince Chu of the Western Han Dynasty. Liu Shu committed suicide after a failed rebellion. Still others claim the tomb belonged to Liu Ying, the second-generation Prince Chu.

A jade shroud sewn together with gold thread and a jade coffin are the two most precious cultural relics unearthed from the Han tomb. But the most impressive are five patterns inscribed on the sides of the jade coffin. On the right side of the coffin is a red circle, and in the circle are three three-legged birds, symbolizing the sun. On the left side of the coffin is another circle, and in the circle are a jade rabbit and a toad, symbolizing the moon.

The jade tiles comprising the shroud are small, and all of them were fashioned out of Hotan jade from Xinjiang. When the tomb was discovered, archeologists found the jade pieces strewn about in disorder. Why did the tomb robbers take the gold thread, but leave behind the jade shroud, the rare jade artifacts and the coins? One possibility holds that the tomb was robbed during the reign of Wang Mang (A.D. 9-23), over a century after the tomb was sealed. The coins were no longer valid legal tender, and the jade artifacts, which signaled the noble status of the deceased, were useless to tomb robbers.

The tour guide told me that when the tomb was discovered, a large bronze jian container full of water was discovered in a storeroom, which served as a mirror. At the bottom of the container was a wooden ladle. Archeologists were overjoyed to find that it had remained intact immersed in the water for so long. To protect it, they did not remove it immediately, but came up with a plan to let the water out of the container from the bottom, and when the ladle emerged from the water, to immediately treat it. Regrettably, when the water was being drained it became slightly agitated, and, before anything could be done, the wooden ladle had disintegrated without a trace.

The Han Dynasty Pottery Warriors and Horses Museum is located to the west of the Mausoleum of Prince Chu. In December 1984, a construction crew working with bulldozers uncovered some pottery figurines in the debris. The workers immediately stopped their work to report the find to their superiors. It turned out to be the world-renowned Han pottery army. More than 4,000 clay warriors, each unique, vivid and lifelike, were arranged in six pits. Three pits, 4, 5, and 6, were later refilled to preserve the artifacts for future generations, Pit 3 was never excavated, and Pit 2 was kept in its original state after excavation, from which some drew the conclusion that Prince Chu had been buried in a hurry. Only Pit 1 is now open to the public, but even that is enough to elicit wonder.

The facial expressions on the figurines are all unique. Some are weeping, some are melancholy, and there are also figurines talking in whispers, or eavesdropping on others’ conversations. From their hairstyles, facial expressions and postures, visitors are able to recognize those representing experienced veterans from those depicting fearless young soldiers. There are also much taller officers, although they are only around 30 centimeters high. If we say that Qin Dynasty life-size terracotta warriors in Xi’an show a dynamic and realistic beauty, then the Han Dynasty pottery warriors of Xuzhou convey a sublime beauty that passes from realism to expressionism.

The Han Dynasty stone reliefs are one of the three wonders of the Han Dynasty, the other two being the pottery warriors and the tombs. The reliefs are images engraved in stone, such as the stone beams of the ancestral temples, the stone walls of the tomb chambers, and the stone sarcophagi. The themes include legends and tales, as well as scenes from everyday life.

The Han Stone Reliefs Museum is located in a scenic area in the city’s southern suburbs. Entering the exhibition hall, one has the impression of penetrating a sacred palace replete with ancient pictures and sculptures. The images depict Han Dynasty buildings, weaving scenes and hosts welcoming their guests, and they offer a glimpse into the social life of the Han Dynasty. The most striking is a scene which can only be described as an ancient barbeque. In the picture, a man roasts mutton cubes on a skewer by the side of a stove while fanning the fire. The scene could not be more recognizable to contemporary visitors. After taking in the nearly 800 separate stone reliefs on display, visitors will feel as if they have read an encyclopedia entry on the Han Dynasty. In actuality, many Han Dynasty stone reliefs in Xuzhou have not been included in the museum’s display, as they have been collected by locals over the years.

An Ideal Destination for Military Tours

Xuzhou has been a militarily strategic site since ancient times. Historically, more than 200 large-scale wars occurred in the area over the millennia, leaving a rich trove for military enthusiasts. In Xuzhou, tourists can experience first-hand China’s 5,000-year military history. Tourist attractions include the Ximatai Scenic Area, where Xiang Yu the Conqueror built the Xima Platform, and the Jiulishan Ancient Battlefield, where Xiang Yu was defeated by his rival Liu Bang.

There is also the Garden of the Monument to the Martyrs of the Huaihai Campaign (from November 1948 to January 1949), one of the 12 destinations on the national Red Tours list. In the garden there is the New Exhibition Hall of the Huaihai Campaign, the largest land war museum in the world. It was designed by a German architect, built at a cost of RMB 100 million, and is equipped with the latest display technology to reproduce the dramatic scenes of the Huaihai Campaign. The garden is located at the foot of Fenghuang (Phoenix) Mountain in the southern suburbs, and it combines bold innovation with classical beauty, and magnificence with elegance.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, a high platform was built whenever a major public event was held, such as the Dianjiang (General Nominating) Platform and the Gefeng (Singing the Great Wind) Platform.

The Xima (Military Review) Platform was the spot from which Xiang Yu reviewed his troops as they drilled after making Pengcheng his capital. Liu Bang and Xiang Yu fought for political power, and Xiang Yu was eventually defeated, committing suicide by cutting his own throat at the Wujiang River. There is a Chinese saying: “If victorious, he is a hero; if defeated, he is a traitor.” But for over 2,000 years, Xiang Yu is the only person who is regarded as a hero despite suffering defeat.

Although hopelessly surrounded by his enemies, he continued to sing songs for his concubine, Yu Ji. He was loyal to his lover, and never surrendered, at the cost of his own life. Xiang Yu the Conqueror Bids Farewell to His Concubine became a favorite legend, and the Xima Platform attracted countless scholars and poets from various later dynasties to ponder those distant events.

Although the Xima Platform was where Xiang Yu reviewed his troops, on the platform there are also many other ancient buildings, such as the Taitou Temple, the Sanyi Temple and the Memorial Temple of Famous Officials.

Xiang Yu was defeated because of his indecisive character, but Liu Bang, founder of the Han Dynasty, made Xuzhou famous nationwide. Tourists to Xuzhou should not miss a visit to Peixian County, Liu Bang’s hometown. Ascending the Gefeng Platform will remind tourists of the scene when Liu Bang, with a cup of wine in hand, sang The Song of the Great Wind. Liu Bang was the most intelligent of the feudal emperors, and Mao Zedong once said that while Xiang Yu was no politician, Liu Bang was an able one. By transforming China into one of the greatest empires in the world, Liu Bang’s contribution cannot be overestimated.

A Splendid Culture and a Beautiful Landscape

Xuzhou is famous not only for its Han Dynasty culture, but also for its beautiful landscape, which is an ecologically friendly garden-like city. Yunlong Mountain lies within the city limits, and Yunlong Lake is home to a wide variety of water fowl. The old course of the Yellow River flows through the countryside, linking a number of historical sites like a jade belt. Jiuli Mountain, so named for its length of nine li (two li equalling one kilometer), is a natural protective barrier around Xuzhou.

Xuzhou is surrounded by mountains, although only Yunlong Mountain reaches into the city itself. The mountains form an impregnable barrier protecting the ancient city, and Yunlong Mountain is permeated with history and culture. When Su Shi (also named Su Dongpo, 1037-1101) served as the prefect of Xuzhou, he claimed to be acquainted with a hermit named Zhang Tianji.

Zhang raised two cranes and released them by the side of a pavilion every day, and Su Shi wrote a prose work entitled Records of the Crane-Releasing Pavilion, describing the beautiful scenery of Yunlong Mountain and praising Zhang Tianji’s noble ideals for leading a simple life free of worldly desires. In his work, Su Shi wrote: “When spring changes into summer, and plants and trees stretch to the sky; and the moon in the autumn and winter sheds light that covers a thousand miles. Between clear and cloudy days, the scene is changeable.” For thousands of years, the Records of the Crane-Releasing Pavilion has enjoyed great popularity, and Yunlong Mountain is also well-known far and wide.

From the Crane-Releasing Pavilion to the Yunlong Academy, and to the Yunlong Mountain Stele Corridor, tourists can experience ancient culture amid natural scenic beauty. If we say that Yunlong Mountain is an enormous writing brush, then the water of Yunlong Lake, at its western foot, is its inexhaustible ink.

The lake is surrounded by mountains on three sides, and Su Shi once said that if it were possible to divert water from the upper reaches of the river to the lake, then Yunlong Lake would be similar to West Lake, and Xuzhou would be like Hangzhou. Although it is less well-known than West Lake, Yunlong Lake has a pure beauty that is pleasing to both the eye and the mind.

In Xuzhou, tourists can also appreciate its pastoral scenery. In spring, people can enjoy the magnificence of the 10,000-mu pear orchard in Fengxian County, and the fragrance of the rose gardens in Tongshan when the flowers are in full bloom; in summer, tourists can tour beautiful Weishan Lake, and regale in the thousands of lotus flowers; in autumn, people can visit the gingko plantation in Pizhou to marvel at the golden falling leaves; and in winter, tours of the hi-tech agricultural sightseeing production bases can be arranged to pick berries and taste snow peaches.

In recent years, dramatic changes have taken place in Xuzhou. The greatest project has been Apricot Blossom Village, in Jinshan Village, at the western foot of Yunlong Mountain. The government relocated Jinshan Village at a cost of RMB 140 million, and built the apricot village, which covers 113,000 square meters. In early spring, when the apricot flowers are in full bloom, the entire slope appears to be covered in snow.

On the embankment of the ancient Yellow River, the government has invested RMB 230 million on the construction of a 36-kilometer-long platform, on which local inhabitants can get close to the water. But the largest investment project so far has been Yunlong Lake. Each year the government invests RMB 1 billion on its improvement. In order to build a better future for Xuzhou, the municipal government has transformed Yunlong Lake into a paradise for people, as well as a rich habitat for birds and fish.

Because of its beautiful environment, within a year of its launch the Xuzhou Development Zone attracted more than 30 enterprises whose investments exceeded RMB 100 million, among them 18 foreign-funded projects. Last year, the Golden Concord Group of Hong Kong built its 10,000-ton polycrystalline silicon project in Xuzhou, which boosted Xuzhou’s economy considerably.

Xuzhou, with its splendid heritage, beautiful landscapes and business friendly economy, is worth a look. It has been steadily creating more opportunities for its people and outside investors, and it has begun to engage with the rest of the world in a mutually rewarding dialogue.