The Three Pagodas at Chongsheng Temple, a landmark of scenic Dali City.	Black-headed gulls over Cuihu Lake.	The Stone Forest near Kunming.

YUNNAN’S provincial capital Kunming is, by any measure, a blessed city. Over the past 7,000 years it has been spared significant disasters of any kind, and the year-round spring-like weather nurtures a lush, enticing environment full of opulent produce. All in all, Kunming residents have long enjoyed a carefree life in laidback surroundings, which perhaps explains the locals’ love of art and flowers.

Locals’ affection for flowers in fact stretches back over many centuries. During the rule of the Dali Kingdom (937-1253) a young emulous king conceived the idea of surpassing the city scenery of Luoyang, an economic and political hub of the more prosperous Central Plains. He planted 24 species of yellow flowers on the river bank, and 24 species of white flowers under a bridge in Kunming. He then became obsessed with writing poems in homage to the splendid scene he had created. These distractions from the rule of state eventually led to his overthrow, but Kunming residents’ romantic interest in flowers hasn’t diminished since. Even the pails which Kunming farmers use to convey fertilizer to their fields are painted with floral patterns.

As well as playing an aesthetic function, the masses of blooms across Kunming constitute a major source of the city’s revenue – Kunming is one of the biggest flower producers in China. Shangyi Street in the downtown area, and Dounan, 18 kilometers from the town center, are the city’s two major flower markets. It’s said flowers are as cheap and as indispensable to life as vegetables in Kunming. The former nourish the mind while the latter sustain the body.

It’s not just flowers that lend Kunming its color however. Yunnan Province is home to 26 of China’s 56 ethnic groups. Many can be found in Kunming, lending the city a multihued diversity. Fifteen percent of Kunming’s population of 5 million comprises ethnic minorities with distinct languages, cultures and religions. The city’s religious heritage is particularly varied. In addition to the five largest faiths – Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Catholicism and other forms of Christianity – there are a good many indigenous ones, such as the worship of Benzhu among the Bai people and the worship of Dongba by the Naxis.

Kunming’s free and balmy atmosphere also breeds creativity in the arts. The Loft Art Community, a grouping of artists often compared to Soho in New York, has emerged in an abandoned industrial zone in west Kunming. It now comprises a large collection of galleries and studios hosting year-round exhibitions of paintings, installations and sculptures. Two big names among the group are Shanghe Chejian (Upper River Workshop), a studio of experimental art, and the Jingpin Gallery, the center of the area’s art trade.

Tang Zhigang, a co-founder of the Loft Art Community, declares, “The purpose of establishing this community is to promote exchanges between traditional and contemporary art, as well as between East and West, so that no parties will be confined to their own terrains and left to indulge in self-admiration.” The Loft Art Community’s open spirit is emblematic of Kumning’s atmosphere as a whole.

Sights in Kunming

Cuihu Park: This park is named after Cuihu Lake, which literally means “Green Lake.” The body of water is regarded as an emerald in the heart of Kunming. Since 1985 the lake has been home to hoards of black-headed gulls migrating from Siberia during the cooler months from October to February.

Military Academy: This institute was a famous incubator of military officers in modern Chinese history. It was founded in 1909 at the end of the Qing Dynasty, and was closed in 1928 during the Republic of China. The main building is an imposing earth, wood and stone structure whose four interconnected sections form a quadrate, a popular design of the period. Admission is RMB 10 per person.

Dianchi Lake: This is the largest plateau lake in Yunnan Province, and the sixth-largest freshwater lake in China. Located in southwestern Kunming, it is also known as Kunming Lake. The number 24 and 44 buses commute between the city’s railway station and Haigeng Park, which sits by the lake. The fare is RMB 1 and admission to the park is RMB 8 per person. Visits to the lake itself are free.

World Horticultural Expo Garden: Situated in a northeastern suburb of Kunming, this garden comprises five exhibition halls and a number of outdoor display sections. It is on the routes of the number 68 and 71 buses. The fare is RMB 1, and park admission costs RMB 100 per person in the morning, and RMB 70 after 2 p.m.

Stone Forest: This spectacular series of rock formations is located in Lunan Yi Autonomous County 80 kilometers from downtown Kunming. The region was a limestone seabed over 200 million years ago, and gradually developed its current look after movements of the Earth’s crust and prolonged erosion by seawater, wind and rain. Several trains pass the site, including one that leaves Kunming at 9:58 every morning, as well as several others heading toward Nanning, Zhanjiang and Guangzhou. Train ticket prices vary from RMB 7 to 17. Tourists can also take shuttles from the Central Station of Passenger Transport or Dongju Station in Kunming, get off at Shilin Fork Road, and then go to the Stone Forest on foot or by horse-drawn carriage (RMB 10 to 15). Admission to the area is RMB 140 per person.

Dali: The main home of the Bai ethnic minority, the city offers a showcase of Bai culture and customs. The biggest event in the city is the annual Bai festival Sanyuejie, meaning “Third Moon Street.” Held in late April to early May, the gala features various trade, sports and entertainment events. Other tourist attractions include the old town of Dali, Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, and the city’s landmark Three Pagodas at Chongsheng Temple, a vestige of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom. There are at least four flights and two trains from Kunming to Dali every day. There are also buses, which take four to six hours. Bus tickets can be booked with the Yunnan Konggang Travel Service at the airport or at the Nanyao Passenger Transport Station near the railway station. At the former site a shuttle operates to Dali at 30-minute intervals, at a cost of RMB 119 per person. From the latter, a bus departs every 45 minutes until 9 p.m., costing RMB 65 per person.

Lijiang: This city is the ancestral home of the Naxi people, known for their exotic culture. The Naxi people have preserved Dongba characters, a pictographic written language invented in the Tang Dynasty (618-907). Naxi traditional music is also alive and well, featuring tunes more than 600 years old. The old town of Lijiang received a UNESCO world heritage listing in 1997. Suhe Town in particular preserves much of the original look of ancient Naxi communities. Scenic Lugu Lake, 280 kilometers from downtown Lijiang, is home to the Mosuo people, who largely retain a matriarchal culture. Another tourist resort is Hutiao (Tiger Jumping) Gorge, where the Jinsha River drops 3,900 meters.

Shangri-la: The lost paradise described in James Hilton’s 1933 novel Lost Horizon lies in Deqen Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, 659 kilometers from Kunming. A flight to the area takes 50 minutes. The local population is a mixture of 13 ethnic groups. Major resorts in the region are Nagpag Lake, Ganden Sumtseling Monastery and Moirig Snow Mountain.

Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture: Lying 740 kilometers from Kunming, this area fascinates visitors with its tropical rain forests, rich wildlife and enticing ethnic culture. The Dai New Year is in June or July each year, when locals stage the hilarious Water Splashing Festival.

Eating in Kunming

Snacks

“Cross the Bridge” Rice Noodles: Made in Yunnan for over 100 years, this dish is famous around the nation. The best noodles can be found at Jixin Dianweiyuan Restaurant on Dongfeng Road, and Jianxinyuan Restaurant on Baoshan Street.

Mushrooms: Yunnan produces a wide variety of edible mushrooms. The best place to try their diverse flavors is on Guanshang Mushroom Hotpot Street. Average cost is RMB 50 per person.

Steamed Chicken in Casserole: None can do this dish better than the Fuzhaolou Yunnan Steamed Chicken Restaurant at 393 Lianmeng Road, Kunming. Tel: 0871-5710158

Erkuai: This snack is made from rice flour flakes of various sizes, either roasted or stir-fried before serving. Those made in Dali are of the best quality.

Restaurants and Food Streets

Dianxiyuan Yunnan Flavors Restaurant

Add: Next to the Deyuan Residential Area on Xingyuan Road.

Tel: 0871-8180207, 8186335

Beidamen Gastronomic and Recreational Street

A confluence of cuisines from Yunnan’s 26 ethnic groups, this street is overflowing with people every night. Recommendations include the Tengchong food at the Jiulingzhuang Restaurant, and the crayfish and brewed mutton at Youyitui Restaurant.

Dianchi Food and Beverage Street

This street specializes in hotpot dishes. One restaurant, run by an American, features the cuisine of the Aini people, a sect of the Hani ethnic minority.

Eateries in the Cuihu Lake Area

Many Western-style eateries, cafés and teahouses are scattered around the lake. The Harbor Plaza Hotel boasts the best seafood buffet in Kunming as well as a selection of Japanese dishes. Another of its signature dishes is abalone, prepared by Hong Kong chefs.

Accommodation

Accommodation of various grades and rates is plentiful in Kunming. An average standard room costs RMB 600 in a four-star hotel and no less than RMB 180 in a three-star one.

Kunming International Youth Hostel: This budget establishment is located on the first floor of Tower C in the Zhengxie Hotel, at 94 Cuihu South Road. Cuihu Lake, the Bird and Flower Market and several snack bars are all nearby. The rate is RMB 25 for a bed in a dormitory, or RMB 100 for a standard room.

Tel: 0871-5167131, 5175395

Kunming Camellia Hotel: Located at 96 Dongfeng East Road, this is a good choice for backpackers. The full rate is RMB 260 per room, but discounts to around half that price are often available. The hotel is conveniently located a mere three kilometers from the railway station and six kilometers from the airport. The hotel also offers free transport to and from the airport.

Tel: 0871-3162918