A "grabbing test" on the first birthday of an ethnically Krean child in Yanbian.	A grand birthday celebration for an elder of Korean ethnicity.	Tianchi is the largest, deepest and highest crater lake in China.

YANBIAN Korean Autonomous Prefecture in northeastern Jilin Province is a fascinating crossroads of people, cultures and international trade. Bordering with both Russia and the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), the area is flooded with tourists and commercial travelers every day. Distinctive cuisine and bubbling hot springs are just some of the attractions on offer. For those seeking communion with nature, Yanbian is rich in stunning scenic spots, including China’s highest and deepest crater lake at the top of the Changbai Mountains.

Cities of International Trade

Yanji is the capital of Yanbian, and serves as the area’s economic, political and cultural center, as well as a major transportation hub. Despite its key role in the life of the region, Yanji remains quiet and clean, with the cold of the winter months forcing local residents to spend most of their time indoors. Some 40 percent of the population are of Korean ethnicity.

Three and a half hours drive from Yanji is Hunchun, positioned very close to the borders with Russia and the DPRK. Hunchun’s Quanhe Port is China’s only direct access to the Japan Sea, so the city plays a vital role in the nation’s international trade.

Hunchun is also the entrance to the DPRK’s Rajin-Sonbong Free Economic and Trade Zone. As early as 7 o'clock in the morning, loaded trucks begin rumbling through the streets down to the methodically organized port, where they quickly pass through customs formalities. Most of the drivers are Hunchun Koreans who speak both Chinese and Korean. They constantly cross back and forth over the border, spending several days at a time in the DPRK. Seafood is one of the main commodities traded here, with as much as 70 percent of the squid caught in DPRK waters exported through Hunchun.

Alongside the commercial cargo, there is a steady flow of Chinese tourists passing through customs. A two- or three-day tour in Rajin-Sonbong costs only RMB 500, and Chinese citizens are able to cross the border with just an ID card and several photographs. A smaller number of travelers also use the city as an entry point into Russia.

The Changbai Mountains

Yanbian’s best known natural feature is the Changbai (Ever White) Mountains, named for their permanent covering of snow. The mountains straddle the Sino-DPRK frontier and include the highest peak in northern China. The mountains were worshiped as the origin of the royal family during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and were off-limits to common people. As a result the unique environment of both temperate and frigid zone vegetation has remained in a virtually virgin state.

Until a few hundred years ago the mountains also contained an active volcano. The cooled molten lava formed a basin-shaped depression 2,194 meters above sea level, which is now known as Tianchi Lake (Heavenly Lake). Chinese tourists can view this stunning body of water from the western or northern slopes of the mountain, both of which are within Chinese territory. The latter is the easier route, with complete facilities to guarantee a safe ascent even in winter, when heavy snow covers the paths.

Tianchi can really only be appreciated on sunny, cloudless days, but unfortunately the area’s plentiful rainfall means the mountains are frequently enveloped in fog or sleet. Many tourists have to ascend the mountains several times to catch a good view.

Although Tianchi was long thought uninhabited, several years ago visitors began reporting sightings of a strange creature in the water. An observation station was set up beside the lake and the stories proved to be true, but details about the animal remain unknown. The biggest mystery is what it feeds on, since laboratory tests have shown no microorganisms living in the lake. The shroud of mystery surrounding the creature has only served to attract even more visitors.

Although midsummer is the best time to visit the Changbai Mountains, local people love the winter, when they can visit the largest collection of hot springs in China. The springs vary in size and temperature, with many over 40 degrees Celsius. Some are positioned right next to Tianchi Lake, but the springs are spread over an area of several hundred miles.

Changbai and Tiyun Hot Springs are the most popular. The former covers some 1,000 sq meters and sits to the north of a famous waterfall on the side of Changbai. Fed by around 30 openings, the spring’s popularity is partly attributable to its very hot temperatures, which reach as high as 82 degrees Celsius. The bubbling mineral water is said to benefit those who suffer from arthritis, stomach diseases and skin conditions. The much smaller Tiyun Hot Spring (10 sq meters) lies to the west of the Changbai Mountains, and the temperature reaches around 60 degrees Celsius.

Local Cuisine

Cold noodles are to Yanji what roast duck is to Beijing, so they are a must-try for every tourist. Jindalai (Korean for azalea) is Yanji’s most famous restaurant, where diners can taste the authentic dish of black buckwheat noodles covered in spicy cabbage with red chili and shredded cucumbers. The noodles are twisted together and are particularly chewy in the characteristic local style. The dish’s clear soup includes an egg, a large piece of watermelon, beef slices and chicken balls.

Tourists can also enjoy the best Korean banfan (rice served with assorted dishes) in Yanji’s Quanzhou Banfan Restaurant. The clientele is mainly ethnically Korean, who take off their shoes and sit around low kang tables to eat. The banfan includes rice, soya bean soup and some simple dishes.