The Taxi from the Airport

By LIN ZILONG

Beijing taxi drivers gear up for 2008 Olympics by learning some English.	One of China's many happy visitors.

Traveling to Beijing for the first time? Don’t get caught in, out, or up by culture shocks. Know how things should – and shouldn’t – be done to ensure your trip is a memorable one for all the right reasons.

The sun was blazing through the bright blue sky over the Chinese capital when tourist Tom Allen crawled off a long flight from Seattle, to begin his dream trip to Beijing. Red-eyed and exhausted but nonetheless effervescent with excitement, he collected his baggage and headed towards the stern-looking immigration officers. Tom stammered out a weak “ni hao,” his hand trembling nervously as he offered his documents to the porky official with the comb-over. This was, after all, his first time in China. The official gave a stifled grunt, stamped Tom’s visa, and waved him through. “Far less intimidating than the boys back home,” muttered Tom as he wheeled his baggage cart towards arrivals.

One thing that struck Tom as he maneuvered his trolley through the waiting crowd was the large number of foreigners craning their necks and straining their eyes at the advancing incomers. A closer look revealed these foreigners made up a small portion of the pack – only they stood out so clearly. They were corn seeds in the salad mix of locals, some jostling for a better view, others rapturously embracing family members and friends, and a few offering “taxi services” in Pidgin English to unsuspecting inbound tourists.

Tom had hardly time to respond before the would-be driver was wheeling both him and his cart towards the exit. They headed for the parking lot, where the driver’s plate-less vehicle was stationed while its owner hooked his fish. The driver stood there gawking while Tom struggled with his suitcases. He had the sort of glint in his eye that should have warned something was amiss, but our traveler was too weary to notice.

The driver reached the city’s snaking ring roads, en route to Tom’s hotel. He might have taken the scenic route; Tom had no way of knowing. Most likely he did not, as the con unfolded thus. Somewhere along the jam-packed third ring road, the car began to splutter. The driver pulled into the side road, and through some pretty accurate gesticulations he managed to convey the message that the car had broken down. Perhaps this had happened before.

Our poor traveler now suspected that he was being taken for a ride in more ways than one. He even offered to get out and push. The driver seemed uninterested in trying to start the car, at least until he received his exorbitant fare of 300 RMB. Far too tired and ill equipped with Mandarin to argue, Tom duly produced the cash, removed his luggage, and waited for a real taxi.

There Is a Better Way

Though it won’t be easy, ignore the “drivers” that approach you in arrivals, and, having converted some currency (huan qian), head straight for the exit. Across the way, you’ll see a queue of people waiting to catch a legitimate cab (da che), which will be lined up nearby. Most of these do the airport run regularly, and will have in their arsenal at least a few words of English. You should have in hand the details of your destination. As you near the queue’s end, the airport security guard will ask you where you’re going (qu nar). Show him your address, and he’ll direct you to a waiting taxi.

The cab driver (shifu) will insist on placing your luggage in the trunk, and he won’t necessarily expect a handsome tip (xiaofei) in return. When all the passengers are settled, the driver will swing out onto the airport road, shoot through the toll bridge (the RMB 10 charge of which will be added to your fare), and you’re set for your first glimpse of the Chinese capital.

As Beijing revs up for the Olympics in 2008, the city’s cabbies have been hitting the English (yingyu) textbooks. Though the average cabby’s vocabulary is currently limited to basic greetings and directions, the swotting is set to intensify as the Games approach. You can therefore expect your cabby to proudly point out city landmarks as you pass them, and perhaps attempt a chat about the weather, if you arrive here for the Beijing Olympics.

Don’t expect the drive to last too long, however. Compared to cabbies in some of the globe’s other large cities, Beijing cab drivers (legit ones at least) are astonishingly honest. This writer has lived in Beijing long enough to know his way around, and has yet to be brought on the ring-around whether taking taxis from the airport or otherwise.

Unless you’re headed straight for the Great Wall, the fare will be far less than the sum our unfortunate traveler forked out for his short trip. It’ll cost about RMB 70 to get to the CBD, and RMB 80 to the city center. To tip or not to tip remains the question in Beijing. Some will expect one, and reluctantly hand over the change, while others will almost chase you down the street if you leave the car without it. But bear in mind that the poor bugger might have spent some hours waiting for your fare. So hand him a crispy RMB 100 note, and let him keep the change (bu yong zhao le). The difference is a few measly cents when converted into US dollars.

Before you get out of the car, it’s worth asking for a receipt (fapiao). Even the most vigilant traveler sometimes succumbs to jetlag-induced amnesia, and you’ll be able to track down any left-behind items with the details on the receipt. Then say goodbye (zaijian), check in, and sleep off that exhaustion.

When commuting from the airport to town, backpackers and those traveling light have another option: the airport bus (jichang bashi). The airport runs a pretty extensive and comfortable bus service to or near most places on the tourist trail for a mere RMB 16 (at time of print), but you’d better have your map out to make sure you get the right bus. Also, if it’s not busy, be prepared to wait: the buses leave when full, not according to a timetable.

(For a printable summary of the Chinese words in this article, please visit www.chinatoday.com.cn, and look for Culture Shocks)??