Xiaojin, a Land to Ease the Soul

By ZUO SHOU

Sichuan Province is China's second-largest Tibetan area. It contains the country's largest population of the Yi ethnic group, as well as the only precinct of the Qiang ethnic minority. It is also home to China's world famous giant pandas. Xiaojin County is in Sichuan's Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture. Formerly known as Maogong, this small town rose to fame after an historical event in 1935 during the Chinese civil war. It was here that troops led by the PRC's founding president, Mao Zedong, joined up with the Fourth Front Red Army during the Long March.

The Tibetan, Qiang, Hui and Han ethnic groups live in peaceful co-existence in Xiaojin. Different styles of architectures and cultures, such as lamaseries, mosques, churches and Buddhist temples, mingle together, and natural and historic attractions abound in this area.

A Witness to Past Turmoil

Xiaojin has been scarred by many wars throughout its history. The Qing Emperor sent two expeditions to the area to suppress rebellions, and the site of an ancient battlefield can still be seen on a hill near the local Wori Chief's official residence.
Xiaojin locals love to recount their colorful past. When I stopped by a Catholic church at Zhengfu Street, a local construction worker told me its history. The French missionary that first introduced Western medicine into the area built the church in 1919. When the two Red Army corps met up in 1935, the ensuing celebration was held in this church. A portrait of Mao Zedong still hangs in the main hallway.

Co-existence of Five Religions

Tibetans constitute the largest ethnic group in Xiaojin, and lamaseries are a common sight. Dawe Monastery, a famous temple belonging to the Gelug Sect, stands in a quiet lane in bustling Dawe Town. Locals say that as many as 400 lamas used to live there, so I was surprised to see just two in the massive compound. I was told that the others had gone home to perform their household duties, and would only return for major religious events. This was the first time I had ever heard of part-time lamas!

Huts made of dark planks line the monastery's large yard. "The Red Army lived there," one of the lamas told me. The Sutra Hall has fresh murals on its outer walls, but its rain-stained ceiling reveals the structure's worn condition. An old lady whom I was told came from a mountainous village for a prayer meeting that was to take place a few days later, sat serenely in the hallway porch, apparently oblivious to our presence. A higher peace seemed to have pervaded her soul.
Dotted around Xiaojing are religious buildings that demonstrate the peaceful co-existence of Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Christianity and Catholicism in the area. After the Qing armies had quelled rebels in then Maogong, Han and Hui people migrated to the area, bringing with them Taoism and Islam. Later, during the years of the Republic of China (1912 - 1949) foreign missionaries introduced Christianity and Catholicism.

There is a square opposite Xiaojin's County Hall, where stands a bronze sculpture in memory of the meeting of the First and Fourth Front Red Army. Just behind it is a distinctive building - a Catholic church, which, unlike those in Europe, is simple in structure, yet emanates an aura of elegance. Locals say that in the days when Catholicism was predominant, the church would be full of worshipers for Mass.

Lord Guan was a marshal during the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280 A.D.) of Chinese history. Widely known for his valor and fidelity, he was posthumously awarded the title of Marquis. Over time, his name was enshrined by both Buddhism and Taoism. A wizened old man voluntarily services Lord Guan by keeping watch over the temple dedicated to him in Xiaojin. It receives frequent visits from the saint's devout followers. Asked how he manages to survive without payment, the old man merely smiles and lowers his head has he resumes his calligraphy.

Wori Tusi (Chieftain) Castle

The most imposing structure in Wori (Tibetan for fief) township is the Wori Tusi Castle that stands along the bank of the fast-flowing Wori River, about 10 kilometers from Siguniang Mountain. The Tusi were the leaders of the Tibetan and Qiang ethnic tribes appointed by the imperial court to handle local affairs. Wori Tusi Castle served as a military base, a symbol of power during peacetime, and as an altar for religious devotions.

A group of robust woman farm workers leans against the wall of the castle, combing their long hair, talking and laughing. Their faces were radiant under the early morning sun. In this remote area of the countryside, life is simple, and people are true to their souls.

Red Tours in Sichuan

Red Tours take visitors to places significant in the history of the Communist Party of China. This year is designated the Year of the Red Tour, and 30 routes covering 100 famous tourist sites are being promoted. Many are in Sichuan Province.
From 1934 to 1936, the main force of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army made the Long March from Jiangxi Province in southern China to converge in the northern revolutionary base at the juncture of Shaanxi and Gansu provinces. They walked some 15,000 li (7,500 kilometers), traversing 70 different counties. A year and 8 months of this epic two-year journey was spent in Sichuan.

The Red Tour of Sichuan goes through the eastern and western part of the province. The most impressive scenic routes include Songpan-Jiajin Mountain, which covers Jiuzhaigou Valley, Huanglong World Natural Heritage and Xiaojin, and Dadu River-Garze, where visitors can admire the scenic beauty of Dacheng, Yading and Shangri-La. Other tours include former residences of late Communist leaders, Yi minority areas along the Jinsha River, the Shaanxi-Sichuan soviet region and the historic area where the Red Army crossed the Chishui River four times during the Long March.