Zhangjiajie's Geological Transitions

By MEI LING

Zhangjiajie is famous for its hoodoos.

Zhangjiajie in northwestern Hunan Province is known around the world for its vast expanse of unique landscapes. It was included in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage List in 1992 and selected as one of the first batch of Chinese national geological parks in 2001. In 2003 it was made one of the first batch of world geological parks.

The formation of Zhangjiajie's landscape occurred over 1.5 billion years of evolutionary change. About 1.5 billion years ago, crust movements in the area turned the land into an ocean valley, and volcanoes erupted at the bottom of the sea. Tens of thousands of years later, the ancient seabed emerged as mountain ranges. Frequent earth changes in the area left large quantities of quartz that formed the basis of the sandstone landscapes seen in Zhangjiajie today.

About 380 million years ago, the crust of northwestern Hunan subsided, forming a huge ocean in the area. Wulingyuan, the most famous of Zhangjiajie's scenic spots, was an area of shallow water near mud and stone encrushed land. Water erosion and natural landslides over the following millions of years led to the formation of Zhangjiajie's primitive ecological system, featuring a landform of sandstone, valleys, and peaks.

China's present geological structure is mainly the result of the Yanshan Mountain Movement in the Mesozoic Era and the Himalayan crust movement. Many Chinese mountains were formed during the Yanshan Mountain Movement, including Zhangjiajie's Wulingyuan, which took its current shape about 7 million years ago. The Himalayan Mountain crust movement turned plains into hills, and hills into mountain ranges. It was at this time, about 3 million years ago, that the Wulingyuan peaks formed.

Tourists to Zhangjiajie find themselves in a fairyland. Domestic and foreign tourism experts alike refer to it as a natural maze. The Husband and Wife Rock, the Fair Lady Stone, Jinbian Brook and Huangshi Village are just a few of the many impressive views in the area. There are few places in the world that incorporate the limpid brooks, grotesque peaks and deep valleys of Zhangjiajie. Its rock strata have been eroded over the years in a subtropical climate, and natural landslides that occurred have formed the unique sandstone hoodoos that geologists call the Zhangjiajie landform.

The 28-kilometer-long Huanglong Cave.

There are other hoodoos in China, such as the Stone Forest in Yunnan Province and the Danxia topography in Guangdong Province. The Stone Forest is karst topography formed by eroded limestone. Danxia topography, the red sandstone landform, was formed later than the hoodoos in Zhangjiajie, but the stones are less hard and have not been so grotesquely eroded as Zhangjiajie hoodoos.

On the periphery of the sandstone peaks in Zhangjiajie are tens of thousands of underground karst caves. The most famous is Huanglong Cave that extends for 28 kilometers and covers 48 hectares of land. The cave is divided into four tiers of many small caves that connect with each other. There are about 5,600 stalactites and stalagmites columns stand in the cave, among them the 27-meter-high stalagmite Sea-Calming Needle, the Musical Column that plays eight musical scales when tapped and the white and glittering stalagmite. Visitors can enjoy grotesque and gaudy natural views of underground caves from a boat along the 600-meter-long Xiangshui River. 

A Paradise for Animals and Plants

Zhangjiajie appears on the World Natural Heritage List not only by virtue of its grotesque rocks and peaks, but also its bank of plant species. They grow in the forest park’s well-balanced ecological environment that is a perfect wildlife habitat. Among the 1,000 species of woody plants in existence in the world, 577 arbors can be found in Zhangjiajie, 57 of them national protected plants.

There are also many old rare plants in Zhangjiajie, such as the unique Wuling Pine growing from a crag, and an old gingko standing 50 meters high, known as a living fossil. Hidden in Zhangjiajie's dense forests are many precious medicinal plants and mushrooms. Some 700 medicinal plants have been discovered here, and wild fruit grows all year round.

Large stretches of primitive forests in Zhangjiajie with deep valleys, limpid streams and springs provide a suitable wildlife habitat. There are four first-grade and ten second-grade national protected animals in Zhangjiajie. The most frequently seen and interesting is the rhesus monkey, 2,000 of which inhabit the Zhangjiajie mountains.

Jinbian Brook, the New Ecological Tour Itinerary

Jinbian Brook is a famous scenic spot in Zhangjiajie.

"The fresh air in Zhangjiajie is a worthy treasure. Breathing such fresh air for an hour in the States costs at least a dollar," so said Nancy Dick, the US lieutenant governor of Colorado in 1986 when she toured Jinbian Brook. She was the first to suggest Jinbian Brook, surrounded by Zhangjiajie's steep mountains and dense green trees, as a commercial product. Liu Liwei, Party secretary of Zhangjiajie City, was the first to suggest developing it.The Jinbian Brook Ecological Tour Itinerary is a big hit with visitors. They enjoy its fresh air, clear water and enchanting scenery. The water flows quietly eastward, and breezes waft the fragrance of flowers to visitors walking by the stream, in whose sunny waters fish swim freely. Its tranquility brings a sense of escape and of harmony with nature.

Jinbian Brook got its name from Jinbian Rock, a well-known scenic spot in Zhangjiajie National Forest Park. Rising sheer from the ground to the sky, the rock is steep with edges and corners on three sides, resembling the bian, an ancient Chinese iron weapon. According to local legend, this was the bian used by Emperor Qinshihuang, first emperor of the Qin Dynasty, to rule the mountains. The rock to its rear stands like a Buddha protecting this imperial weapon. Like the many strangely shaped mountains and rocks in Zhangjiajie, it was formed by water erosion and gravitational force on sandstone. Opposite Jinbian Rock is a large stone resembling a lantern that hangs over the steep mountain tops called "Cutting the Mountain to Save Mother." Two stone peaks that appear to have been chopped with an axe stand on its either side. The shape of the rock and peaks remind local people of the old Chinese story  "Cutting the Mountain to Save Mother," hence its name.

The best time to see Jinbian Brook scenic area is after a rainfall, when the water level rises. This dense forest is cool after rain, and visitors are advised to bring warm clothes.

Food and Local Specialties

Food

Sangzhi Salted Dried Bean Curd: This is the most famous Sangzhi County specialty. Local people say Sangzhi salted dried bean curd was sent as a tribute to the imperial court in the Xianfeng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

Juhuaxin and Jinxiang Shaddocks: These are the two most famous local fruits and visitors should not miss the chance to taste them when in Zhangjiajie.

Sour Fish Meat: This is a favorite of the local Tujia ethnic minority people. The pickling process removes its oil and fishy smell, and the Tujia people consider it a delicacy worthy of honored guests.

Most mountains in Zhangjiajie are sandstone landforms.

United Vegetables: This is a dish eaten during festival celebrations. It is made from radishes, bean curd, cabbage, pork, chili and other vegetables cooked together in one big wok. It is the traditional dish to celebrate family reunion and a good harvest.

Specialties

Tujia Pasted Paintings: This is a Tujia-created art form. Sand, stones, tree bark, bamboo shoot skins and cloth remnants are all pasted together as a celebration of the Wuling Mountain landscapes and Tujia folkways. No paper, brushes, inks or colors are used in their creation, but they have a stunningly artistic effect. Exponents have applied for a national patent on the technique.

Turtle Back Veined Colored Stone: In the Tianzi Mountain area are stones with markings resembling turtleback veins that local people call turtle rock. Local craftsmen have carved the stones into turtles, cattle, horses, dragons, incense burners and many other shapes. They are very popular among tourists and are currently sold in Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan and Southeast Asian countries.

Tujia Brocades: The Tujia people use their traditional looms to weave colorful brocades with a cotton yarn warp and colored thread weft. Their woven products include wall hangings, cushions, sachets, room decorations, ornaments and handbags, decorated with vivid designs of landscapes, flowers and animals.