Beijing Parks (Part 3)

By SUSAN TRIMBLE

Yuyuantan.

Parks! Parks! Parks! There are simply too many to visit. My exploration has been exhausting but highly satisfying. I know the city like the back of my hand and I can sniff out parks even in the midst of cranes and wrecking balls. If only I had another two months, I might finish visiting all the parks in Beijing.

Beijing is reported to have 131 parks! This fantastic number includes all greened public area -- some are actually parks with boundaries such as walls or fences, some are green walking areas along canals and built-up areas. There are currently 30 other park areas under construction; and the green plan for Beijing 2008 is to have 800 park areas throughout Beijing municipality. It is hard to believe but I think they will succeed. However I hope that within the overall "Parks and Woods" construction plans are considerations for maintaining and restoring the integrity of the ancient parks that are part of the very soul of Beijing.

Last month you read about most of the well-known Beijing parks and their historical and popular significance. Now I introduce many other parks with different characteristics. Each park takes on the personality of the neighborhood, and it is interesting how much one can learn about the social structure of Beijing by simply visiting parks all over the city.

Nanguan Gongyuan 南馆公园

Nanguan is tucked away near the tiny Tongjiao temple. Surrounded by new construction on most sides, this newly built park is a green oasis for the local inhabitants. Boasting lush lawns and a clean little lake, Nanguan has a pleasant looking restaurant overlooking the water.

Mingchengqiang Yizhi 明城墙遗址

Caged!

This meandering strip park leans against a long section of restored Ming city wall. Easternmost is Dongbianmen and towards the west an old stationhouse of the Government Railways of North China awaits your exploration.

Huangchenggen Yizhi 皇城根遗址

Trees, new grass, park benches and lots of attentive grandparents with their precious charges are found along the narrow boulevard that follows the eastern boundary of the old Imperial City. At Dianmen you will find a small section of the northeast Imperial City corner wall.

Wanshou Gongyuan 万寿公园

Part of Wanshou Park has managed to survive the encroaching construction. The result is those living in the huge new residential area have the great pleasure of looking out over this charming green space. With hillocks and a small pond, Wanshou provides winding paths and lots of trees to shade you while you dream. Hibiscus line the northern edge softening the old row houses that back onto this park. As in many Beijing parks, Wanshou has senior citizen activity centers.

Xuanwu Yiyuan 宣武艺苑

Freaky rocks and bonsai, an old MIG 15 fighter jet and whimsical mechanical rides for the kids! You will find all of that at Xuanwu; but most lovely of all are the paths that meander around the small lake and across the bridge, through the twisting dragon-back wall, up and down the hillock. This park is well worth a long afternoon -- a dreamy quiet retreat worth sharing with a good friend.

Dongdan Gongyuan 东单公园

Wow its busy in this small park! Located right off Dianmen Nan Dajie, this is a meeting place for those taking a break from work, those who have no work, and those who are making work. If you want to have a massage or a haircut, to buy a whistle or a new comb, or have your fortune told, you can do it all at Dongdan. This is also a place where exercise groups meet and practice their own particular brands of "duanlian."  As you climb to the top of the hill along hidden paths, you will surely meet a singer, a screamer or a musician around most corners.

Changpuhe Gongyuan 菖蒲河公园

Behind the red wall on Changan just west of the Grand Hotel, you will find a beautiful new strip park on either side of a clean canal. Complete with a small museum displaying some quirky items, Changpuhe is a peaceful, clean respite after a busy day on Wangfujing. The Parks Bureau deserves the highest congratulations for the effort put into the planning and construction of this park. It is truly one of the loveliest outdoor places in Beijing!

Longtan Gongyuan 龙潭公园

A park full of dragons of course! The eastern side has some quiet natural areas. With amusements scattered throughout, this park and especially the neighboring fairground is a favorite of children.

Lianhuachi 莲花池

Translated into English as Lotus Pond, this park near the west train station has lots of open sky and is a perfect place for flying kites. All kinds of boats are available for exploring the pond. A little tattered looking, Lianhuachi is still a quiet place where you will surely find a slice of Beijing life and a large expanse of lotus!

Beijing Amusement Park.

Qingnianhu Gongyuan 青年湖公园

Truly a park with something for everyone, Qingnianhu has a huge lake, stocked fishing ponds, two larger than Olympic size swimming pools (one with water), waterslides, bumper cars, croquet lawns and a golf driving range. In spite of all the activities, the park still has some pleasant shady walking paths and lots of benches on which to rest and watch the fun. And you will meet some very interesting folks in Qingnianhu.

Rendinghu Gongyuan 人定湖公园

I found this park aptly described in a recent magazine as having an incongruous sculpture garden and reminiscent of Tivoli. Go to Rendinghu not only to "ponder the weirdness," but also to enjoy the many green and quiet corners that await a dreamer.  You sometimes find artists in this unusual space.

Liuyin Gongyuan 柳荫公园

What a beauty this park is! Vast, well designed, beautifully groomed, shady and cool, Liuyin is a destination for many local people and lovers looking for a romantic backdrop. Many sides of Beijing life are seen here, from fishermen with their long bamboo poles to students of Tai Chi, and others playing traditional instruments and singing. And a few lucky families enjoy a unique location for their courtyard homes.

Shuangxiu Gongyuan 双秀公园

This little local park is rather pretty to walk through. The northeast corner is especially pleasant. Called Cuishi, this area was designed jointly with Japan. Cuishi was designed as a Japanese garden; there is a waterfall and a lipstick red bridge. When I was there, unfortunately there was no water, but if there had been, I might have stayed long enough to settle down with a book.

Yuandadu Yizhi 元大都遗址

This protected green space with a few lovely trees provides a backdrop for a section of the Yuan Dynasty city wall that surrounded the ancient capital Dadu. You will find a memorial record near the statue of an old soldier. Actually there is another section of Yuan city wall that is also being highlighted by a strip park west of Shuangxiu.

Chaoyang Gongyuan 朝阳公园

This park is vast and has everything from quiet corners (although they are hard to find) to swimming pools and exhibition type rides -- something for everyone, but mostly for those who are looking for endless entertainment and lots of people. This park is new, continually changing and increasing in size. One day it will encompass a lot of the other existing parks in Chaoyang. The goal is to be bigger. The result is a loss of that good old park feeling. Nevertheless, people flock to this giant playground.

Tuanjiehu Gongyuan 团结湖公园

Another pleasant local park in Chaoyang, Tuanjiehu is very close to the main embassy area and is a favorite haunt of the local Chinese and foreign community. Tai Chi is a popular pastime in this park. Paths lined with sweeping willows circle three quiet lakes.  A haven in the busiest part of Chaoyang district, Tuanjiehu is a special place for young and old alike.

Zhonghua Minzuyuan 中华民族园

This park houses a great collection of ethnic minority houses and bridges. Some are replicas and others are actual reconstructions. Educational for young and for old, the Minzuyuan is a fascinating way to spend a half a day.

Honglingjin Gongyuan 红领巾公园

This park, which lies just east of the east fourth ring road, is a delight. Don't be put off by the surrounding construction! Honglingjin is not a new park but has manicured green lawns, new trees and many flowerbeds, and it is as clean as you could ask for. The park has a large lake with paddleboats available for hire. An interesting display of larger than life statues in bronze and stone depicting young pioneers and other revolutionary figures line the entrance. Children will be happy for hours in clean, modern, colorful playgrounds. The weekdays are very quiet. Look for the old man who sings old-fashioned love songs in perfect English.

Beijing Shijie Gongyuan 北京世界公园

Another specialty park, a tour through Shijie or World Park will provide a miniature taste of countries, cities, and special attractions from all over the world. Allow the better part of a day if you go here with children.

Shijingshan, Guanyuan, Miyun, and Beijing Youleyuan 石景山,官园, 密云, 北京游乐园

These amusement parks are all exactly that! Fairgrounds complete with carnival games and all kinds of amusement facilities from swimming to ferris wheels and serpentine roller coaster rides that will excite the child in all of us.

Beijing Zhiwuyuan 北京植物园

This large area has plantings such as peony, rose, bamboo as well as greenhouses, bonsai halls, Taihu rocks and a very large and beautiful solarium sustaining hundreds of unusual plants and trees. The Botanical Garden is in the Xiangshan mountains and you could easily spend a whole day in this refreshing area west of Beijing proper.

The heart of Beijing is the Forbidden City, and the streets are laid out like a grid around it.

Long ling fishing.

Major ring roads provide easier access to all parts of the city. We all recognize the ring roads on a map as heavy, obvious concentric lines. When we actually see them, they're the roads that seem to hang in the sky in many places, and that have too many cars whizzing by in both directions during all of the day and much of the night. I found the easiest way to learn the parks was to locate them within the various ring roads.

Parks within the second ring road

Zhongshan, Laodong Renmin Wenhuagong, Beihai, Housanhai, Zhongnanhai, Changpuhe, Jingshan, Dongdan, Guanyuan, Xuanwu, Wanshou, Taoranting, Daguanyuan, Xiannongtan, Mingchengqiang Yizhi, Beijing Yule, Longtan, Tiantan, Nanguan, Huangchenggen Yizhi

Parks within the third ring road

Ditan, Ritan, Yuetan, Lianhua, Yuyuantan, Zizhuyuan, Beijing Dongwuyuan, Wan Fangting, Hua Xiangyu, Yuan Dadu Yizhi, Rendinghu, Shuangxiu, Liuyin, Qingnianhu

Parks within the fourth ring road

Yuantucheng Yizhi, Zhonghua Minzuyuan, Chaoyang, Tuanjiehu, Shuidui, Yaowa, Fengtai Huayuan

Parks within the fifth ring road

Honglingjin, Xinglong, Yuanmingyuan, Beijing Daxue, Yiheyuan, Yuquanshan, Beijing Shijie

Parks outside the fifth ring road

Beijing Zhiwuyuan, Xiangshan, Badachu, Shijingshan, Gucheng, Diaosu, Songlin, Yingshanzui

"Parking" Tips!

Walk, ride your bike or take public transportation. Most parks do NOT have a parking place for cars.

Wear comfortable clothing and shoes, a hat and sunscreen.

Have small change in your pocket. Most parks cost between 5 Mao and 2 Yuan to enter.  Some are free and a small number of specialty parks can be as high as 80 Rmb yuan.  Students, seniors and children have reduced entrance fees.

Take drinking water, hand wipes (the "loos" are basic), and your book!

You can enter many parks at 06:00 and stay until 21:00. The hours are posted on a sign at the park entrances. If you are unsure of the park hours, you are safe going between 09:00 and 20:00.

Once you have found a favorite park and you plan to return often, you can buy monthly passes for a very low price.

Most parks have groups in the morning who are exercising or dancing. You are welcome to join in.

What a great way to learn about Beijing, its lovely people and their life -- so take some time for yourself and go for a walk in the park! Maybe you and I will meet in one of them.