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April 2003
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Pieces of the Past
Pujiu Temple and Notre Dame de Paris

 

Pujiu Temple and Notre Dame de Paris

By staff reporter HUO JIANYING


French musical Notre Dame de Paris staged in Beijing and Shanghai.

AS the curtain lifted on the year 2003, two classic love stories were staged in China: the Peking Opera The West Chamber and French musical Notre Dame de Paris. To the throngs of theater-goers who went to these performances, they were an aural and visual Chinese/cordon bleu feast.

Authors Wang Shifu and Victor Hugo are from different eras, countries and cultures, but their works nevertheless have many parallels. Both laud the pursuit of love and freedom and decry feudalism and despotism, portraying the deprived and oppressed as righteous and courageous. Moreover, both have places of worship -- Pujiu Temple and Notre Dame de Paris -- as the backdrop to their performance masterpieces.

Romance in a Buddhist Sanctuary


A scene from the Peking opera version of The West Chamber.

The West Chamber is set during the Zhenyuan Period (785-805) of the Tang Dynasty. The story begins as the late Prime Minister's widow Madam Cui and her children make a stop at Puzhou (today's Yongji County, Shanxi Province) and put up at the Pear Blossom Courtyard guesthouse of the local Pujiu Temple, on their way to the Tang capital Chang'an. A young intellectual, Zhang Junrui (Zhang Sheng) from Luoyang is also on his way to Chang'an, where he is to take the imperial examination. He stays in the west wing of the temple.

When Zhang and Madam Cui's daughter, Yingying, meet in the temple hall, the two fall in love. Observing this, Yingying's maid Hongniang commits herself to helping the lovers.

Soon after, a mutiny occurs in the local garrison. Hearing of Yingying's beauty, the rebel leader besieges Pujiu Temple with the intention of capturing the maiden, at which point her mother, Madam Cui, promises that whoever repels the attackers may have her daughter's hand in marriage.

Overjoyed, Zhang immediately writes a letter to his classmate General White Horse, who arrives with forces strong enough to overwhelm and scatter the rebels. Madam Cui, does not, however, bring up the matter of her promise, and Zhang is so distraught that he falls ill. Feeling deep sympathy for this lovesick young man, Hongniang persuades her mistress to steal into the garden at midnight and listen as Zhang plays plaintive music to his love on the other side of the wall. Hongniang later serves as a messenger between Zhang and Yingying, and eventually arranges a clandestine meeting for them, when the two plight their troth, flee and spend the following month together.


The wall Zhang Sheng climbs to meet Yingying.

Yingying's mother is furious, and severely chastises Hongniang for her part in the conspiracy. Unfazed, the maid retorts that the young couple had no alternative but to elope, as Madam Cui broke her original promise allowing them to marry.

Abashed and speechless, Madam Cui is forced to keep to her original word, but insists that Zhang pass the imperial exam before marrying Yingying. Though reluctant to part with his beloved, Zhang sets out for Chang'an, and six months later passes the exam with flying colors, ranking first of all entrants.

Meanwhile Madam Cui's nephew, Zheng Heng, to whom Yingying was formerly affianced, starts a rumor that Zhang has married a senior official's daughter. Outraged, Madam Cui decides to marry Yingying to Zheng. Fortunately Zhang returns in time, and the story has a happy ending.

As most Chinese love dramas end in tragedy, The West Chamber is unusual for its tale wherein the underdogs win out against all-dominating feudalism. The fighting spirit and happy ending to this opera make it a favorite of the masses, as it corresponds to their common aspirations.

Originally entitled The Story of Yingying by Yuan Zhen (779-831), famous Tang Dynasty (618-907) poet, The West Chamber was adapted by noted playwright Dong Jieyuan and Wang Shifu in the thirteenth century. Its enthralling plot, distinct characterization, and rich language have preserved its popularity right through to the present day, and many of its arias are still widely sung.

Thousand-Year-Old Temple


Pear Blossom Courtyard where Yingying and her mother stay.

The West Chamber is set in the Pujiu Temple of Emeiyuan, Yongji County, Shanxi Province. No record exists of when the temple was first built, but according to historical documents and archeological research, it was in existence at the time the Sui Dynasty (581-618) was founded, when it was called the West Yongqing Temple. It was renamed Pujiu in the mid-Tang Dynasty. In the Story of Yingying Yuan Zhen refers to the temple thus: "a dozen li (1 li=0.5 kilometer) east of Puzhou is situated a monks' quarters, Pujiu Temple." Over the past millennium the temple has been destroyed several times by earthquakes and fires, and undergone subsequent reconstructions, the last occasion being 1986.

The temple comprises buildings and a rear garden. The west chamber where Zhang Junrui lodged is to the west of the Great Buddha Hall, and the Pear Blossom Courtyard where Madam Cui and Yingying stayed is to its east. In between is the Red Wall, beside which grows a towering almond tree. In the play Zhang scales the Red Wall with the help of this tree to go and meet Yingying, a scenario that would appear to be based on fact. A stone tablet has been unearthed in the temple, on which is inscribed a poem entitled Pujiu Temple, Former Residence of Yingying, by a local official of the Dading Period (1161-1190) of the Jin Dynasty. This demonstrates that the temple was believed to be the setting for the Western Chamber as long as eight centuries ago.

Legendary Pagoda


The Yingying Pagoda in Pujiu Temple.

The most famous structure in the Pujiu Temple is the Yingying Pagoda. Initially named Pujiu Temple Dagoba, it is where Zhang and Yingying meet and pledge their love. Its comely shape and role in The West Chamber have resulted in it later being renamed the Yingying Pagoda.

This pagoda is also famous as an example of consummate architectural excellence. Like most Tang pagodas, it is a quadrangular, 13-story structure of compactly stacked eaves, of a height of 36.7 meters. What makes it singular is its bewitching echo accoustic. The pagoda is one of four ancient echo buildings extant in China, the others being the Echo Wall in Beijing's Temple of Heaven, Baolun Temple Pagoda in Henan, and the Stone Harp in the Giant Buddha Temple, Sichuan.

Built with fine bricks at the top of a slope in open fields, the pagoda is a perfect conductor of sound, its hollow body enabling sound waves to resonate. Knocking on the ground with a stone 20 meters from the pagoda, it is possible to hear echoes reminiscent of a frog croaking, hence the reference to it as the Pujiu Frog in the Puzhou Prefecture Annals of 200 years ago.

The Frog Beating Platform west of the pagoda is where the most effective echo may be produced, as constant strokes over past centuries have left a dent on the petrous slate. On the slope down from the platform is the Frog Croak Pavilion where the reverberation can be heard most clearly.

Other relevant West Chamber sites are the Yingying Pavilion and Moon Worshiping Platform in the rear garden.

Enduring Appeal of The West Chamber Protagonist


A print by Ming painter Chen Hongshou (1589-1652) depicting Hongniang watching Yingying read a letter from Zhang Sheng.

Thanks to the lasting fame of The West Chamber, Pujiu Temple attracts throngs of young people who go there to pray for nuptial felicity. Today many young people hold their wedding ceremonies in the west chamber.

Hongniang, the pert and vivacious maid who performs vital offices in the love affair between Zhang and Yingying, is a household name in China. She easily steals the limelight from Zhang and Yingying in opera performances, and her name has become the appellation for match-makers.

According to the latest study, the experiences of Yuan Zhen, author of The Story of Yingying, on which The West Chamber is based, is antithetical to that of his hero Zhang Sheng. As a descendant of the Northern Wei Dynasty royal family, Yuan served at senior official posts during the Tang Dynasty. The woman he loved was, however, a Hu barmaid who came to Puzhou from today's Uzbekistan. Given the distance between them, as regards ethnicity and social status, their affair was ill starred. But literati over the following ages rewrote his work as The West Chamber, a more optimistic tale where the lovers break the shackles of feudalism to achieve a free and happy marriage. 

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