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April 2003
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TOURISM

Lianyungang: Mystical and Phantasmagoric
DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THE KIDS!
Nourishing Soup and Gruel
Mushroom and Chicken Ball Soup
Cooking Class
National Capital Golden Ribs

 

DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THE KIDS!

By SUSAN TRIMBLE


Off to the desert.

"A journey of a thousand miles begins with one step"

                    ---- Chinese Proverb

LIVING abroad is a challenge. Children are a challenge. Travelling with children in Asia is too much for some people to even contemplate.....!

But sharing China and learning about Chinese culture with your children will ensure a happy and educational experience while you live or travel in this huge country wherein lives one-fifth of the world's population.

Many foreigners who live in China only think of returning to their home country or heading for the beach if they plan a vacation with their children. Although both are appealing options, there certainly are many other choices that your children will learn from, will truly enjoy and will remember forever.


Have kids -- will travel.

Perhaps the idea of heading out, youngsters in tow, to less sophisticated places -- where there are no MacDonald's, no fancy aquariums, few Western restaurants -- is daunting. But it doesn't have to be.

Consider taking along your ayi! Presumably the kids like her, and for sure she is reliable, used to looking after them, knows their limits and so on. Otherwise she wouldn't still be your ayi. In addition she speaks Chinese, can describe your needs to hotel staff, knows how to order food that your family will eat happily, is capable of handling a medical situation involving the children, and above all, will be thrilled with the chance to travel. Taking Ayi with you means that you could have a game of golf, a night out exploring the town, maybe a candlelit dinner or attend a not-for-kids activity. What more could you want?

Travelling by car is great because you can stop for picnic lunches, "energy runs" or just because you see something you want to investigate. However, consider how much of a holiday the actual driving will be for you.


Kindergarten recess.

Today there are many freeways and improved secondary roads and so in some respects driving is easier than before. However, it is also important to note that as roads improve, traffic increases. Once you are off the highways, routes are changing everyday and construction is a common interruption. You should:

* restrict driving to daylight

* be prepared to take twice as long as you plan

* refill gasoline only at reputable dealers or at locations with other patrons

* carry excellent and complete accident insurance for yourself, your passengers and your car

* speak some Chinese

* and have a backup plan.

If you love driving, if your family enjoys long trips in the car, and if you have the time and flexibility, then climb in your car and go travelling ... itกฏs worth it!

However, there are other travel options that overall might be a better use of your time and money.

When you consider that an overnight train means you don't spend money on a hotel and that you travel while you sleep, train travel makes a lot of sense. Soft sleepers are great for family travel. The kids love the top bunks, they can spread out their books and games and keep themselves amused for hours. And when they need to stretch, they can't go far or get lost. Their little foreign faces ensure that someone will either know where they went or bring them back to you. If your family plus the ayi won't fit into one compartment (they hold four people) then buy two - you'll have lots of room!


Learn to make jiaozi.     

Of course there are flights to nearly every city in China and travel by air is generally timely. The planes are clean and safe. But the cost is about twice the price of train per person.

I don't recommend the choice of public bus for families with children. It is too restrictive for active little bodies and the washroom facilities are not convenient. You need a lot of time, patience, cultural understanding, Chinese language and a huge sense of adventure. Altogether too much for most kids!

Now that you have solved the handling of the day-to-day needs of your children, and you have decided how best to travel, -- where will you go? Many of those "must see" sites in China are perfect for youngsters if you prepare them. It is pretty hard for them to wrap their minds around Han dynasty, Silk Road, holy mountains and so on.  Probably the school library will have some great storybooks that accurately describe China's history in handfuls that are the right size for the kids...and maybe also for you! There are several good books in English available at local bookstores describing sites such as the terra cotta warriors of Xi'an in story form suitable for children.

Bearing children in mind, the first places that come to mind are Xi'an, Pingyao, Shaolin Monastery, the water towns of Zhejiang and Jiangsu, and Harbin during Ice Festival.


Today I belong to a mountain tribe.    

In Xi'an, at the museum of the Terra Cotta Warriors, the children will be totally absorbed by the wrap-around movie screen with a film that runs continually through the day, and describes in Hollywood-style, the battles of the Qin emperor, the building of the underground mausoleum, and the enormous terra cotta army of soldiers that accompanied the emperor to the afterworld. If you can drag the kids out of that theater to the exhibition halls, they will again be enthralled as they discover the unearthed legions of those same terra cotta soldiers. The actual site of the tomb of Qin Shi Huang Di is great fun for kids. There are hundreds of steps to climb to the top of the mound. The provincial museum is also superb, well-laid out with excellent descriptions, and there is an outdoor grassy area where you can take a break from culture when it gets too much. Xi'an has a famous jiaozi restaurant -- a much better option for children than the famous Tang Dynasty Dinner show, which is heavy on glitz and glamour and has expensive food that they won't like anyway.

Pingyao is a charming Ming city, still completely enclosed by a wall. This UNESCO world heritage site is well-preserved, very small and completely tourist friendly.  Your children will feel as if they have walked into a storybook! They can run through cobbled streets, ride bicycles or rickshaws on the top of the city wall, explore old buildings, climb into underground bank vaults, watch old style performances in law courts of long ago and in the Temple of the City God and so on. Pingyao is a living museum, one that you can all become part of for a few days of your life. Choose to visit one of several restored family mansions located in the same area, another perfect place for kids to be at home with their imagination.

The famous Shaolin Monastery excites even the most timid children. The stories of Kung Fu masters and their student monks come alive if you time your visit to coincide with the performances that are arranged for tourists. Shaolin Monks put on well choreographed, colorful and dramatic performances that occasionally travel to major cities in China. If you have a chance to take the kids to one before or after you travel to the monastery, you will win many points! While in the area of Shaolin you should visit Longmen Grottos with thousands of carved statues in all sizes, shapes and postures. Your children will enjoy climbing the many staircases, posing for photos with statues 50 times their size and be amused by other carvings as tiny as their thumbs. And all the while, they'll be unconsciously learning a bit about Buddhism, about the resilience of people thousands of years ago, about erosion of rock by weather, and so much more. Luoyang area has many other sites to visit that are highly suitable for children.


A special angle for kids.  

The water towns in Eastern China provide more opportunities for children to absorb history while they play. Travelling in gondolas through tiny towns with canals for streets, hunting under countless ancient bridges to find lions and other gargoyle-like creatures that guard the waters, wandering down alleys that are only wide enough for a pint-size person, fishing for the tiniest minnows with a long-g-g bamboo pole -- those are dreams that children have -- dreams that you can make come true in Tongli, Tunxi or Xitang.

What fun for children to visit Harbin during the winter! Ice sculptures built by teams from all around the world turn Harbin into a glistening winter wonderland. Yummy food, fresh air and lots of snow will ensure that they happily sleep all the way home.

China's ethnic peoples are fascinating to young and old. The richly decorated and colorful costumes, the strange customs and exciting festivals are a perfect recipe for a memorable vacation. Bull fights, dragonboat races, song and dance competitions, mountain climbing and water splashing holidays are educational and lots of fun! Most often tribal people live in remote areas, and so, as you set out to participate in minority festivals, you will venture deep into beautiful mountain regions and rain forests, far from the smog and the hustle and bustle of modern China.

And don't hesitate to go to China's wild west! How about visiting a bird sanctuary on an island in the center of a salt lake so vast that the shores are not visible.  And there are giant, spectacular sand dunes to scramble up, gangling camels to ride, watchtowers of the Han Dynasty Great Wall to climb. Distant ruins of ancient cities whisper secrets to modern explorers as they wander in and out of faintly distinguishable houses, temples, stables and passageways. Caves still containing Buddhist paintings and statues from as far back as the 4th century are awesome discoveries. Empty deserts stretching endlessly will fire the imagination of your children as they travel the winding roads of their minds.

So don't leave the kids at home! You will become your children's best teacher by simply taking them traveling to exotic destinations and encouraging them to get lost in their dreams. As you also get lost in yours, travelling together will bind you to your children in ways you won't expect.


Where are they hiding?  

From Beijing:

Xi'an, Shaanxi is an overnight train or 16 hour drive.

Pingyao, Shanxi is an overnight train or a 7 hour drive.

Shaolin/Luoyang, Henan is an overnight train or a 10 hour drive.

The water towns of Jiangsu, Zhejiang are an overnight train or about 18 hour drive.

Harbin, Heilongjiang is an overnight train.

The wild west, Qinghai, Gansu, Xinjiang could be a 1 to 2 week journey by train or car, if you are a really adventuresome family.

Find a good travel planner to help you put together an itinerary to suit your children. Buy the kids a camera and some books and GO TRAVELLING!

 

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