Xianyang, Seat of Emperors and Witness to History

By YU JIE & WANG NAN

Clay figurines and eave tiles unearthed from Han imperial tombs.

If Chinese history and civilization were a tree, Beijing would be at its top, and Xianyang at its root. Just 25 kilometers from Xi'an in Shaanxi Province, Xianyang was capital of 13 dynasties, and is site of 27 imperial mausoleums and 1,000 tombs of nobles, courtiers and celebrities. It is a wonderland for anyone interested in Chinese antiquity.

Mausoleums and Their Treasures

The imperial mausoleums and attendant tombs in Xianyang stretch for 50 kilometers. As described in an ancient poem: "No people are seen by the Weihe River, only looming tombs and crouching qilin (Chinese mythological animaly)." These ancient tombs and their burial artifacts are all priceless treasures.

Qianling Mausoleum is the burial ground of Tang Emperor Li Zhi and his wife Empress Wu Zetian, who ruled China after her husban's death. This is the only tomb shared by two imperial rulers in China. The mausoleum was meticulously built. Emperor Li Zhi was so enamoured of calligraphy that he demanded his entire collection be buried with him. This called for stricter than normal security measures. A total of 39 tiers of stone stakes block the way from the tomb entrance to the door of tomb chamber. They were fixed with iron bolts to make them indestructible, and reinforced with molten iron. This has effectively prevented any attempt at grave robbery for the past 1,000 years.

The tomb of Huo Qubing is another historic site under state protection. Huo was a distinguished militarist of the Western Han Dynasty (206B.C.-A.D.24). As from the age of 18 he went on six expeditions against Hun invaders. He died in battle at age 24. To commemorate the glorious feats of the young general, Emperor Wu Di built his tomb in the shape of the Qilian Mountains, site of a battle against the Huns. In front of the tomb are 15 stone sculptures, the most remarkable that of a horse trampling a Hun. All are exquisitely carved in the bold style prevailing in the early Han Dynasty.

Han Emperor Wu Di ruled for 54 years, and his great talent and bold vision brought the Western Han Dynasty to its zenith during his rule. Wu Di gave orders to build his tumulus, Maoling, in 139 B.C. during the second year of his reign.  This is the largest of all Han imperial tombs, and its construction took the longest. Maoling is a veritable treasure trove of riches. It is said that the emperor was buried in jade clothes sewn with gold thread, together with a jade case, jade wand and gold caskets containing over 30 volumes of Buddhist scriptures.

The painted terracotta warriors discovered in Yangjiawan are another wonder of Xianyang. These hundreds of models of infantry and some 2,000 cavalry constitute the first terracotta army to be unearthed in China. These imperial guards have been exhibited in Europe, North America, Japan and Singapore.

Xianyang cuisine is a key aspect of its local culture and has distinctive local features. The most noted Xianyang dishes are jiaozi, Tang-style banquet dishes and pancake chips in beef or button broth. But the most intriguing local snack is guokui (helmet pie). It came about in 624, when legions of laborers were sent to build the Qianling Mausoleum. Preparing food was difficult until the practice of cooking pies in helmets began, hence the name guokui. After constant improvements to the recipe over the centuries, today's guokui resembles a spiked pie, and is crisp and savory.

Fresh Passion for an Ancient City

Stone sculptures in the Maoling Museum.

People of Xianyang are deeply proud of their ancient city. They have taken every measure to preserve its historic sites and guard its reputation. Some 100 tourism supervisors patrol the city, and there is a tourist complaints hot line. In 2002 the city received 10.26 million domestic and international visitors, chalking up 2.48 billion yuan in tourism income. There was not one complaint all year. 

The Weihe River traversing Xianyang is the source of its long and brilliant civilization, but has become badly polluted in recent years. Zhang Liyong, mayor of Xianyang, once ruefully admitted: "We owe the Weihe River."  The Xianyang Lake project was launched in May 2003, and is expected to be finished in May 2005. Building dams along the river will cause a 3-square-kilometer artificial lake to emerge, and trees and grass planted along its banks will bring much-needed greening to the river.

On March 22, 2003, World Water Day, the municipal government mobilized over 10,000 volunteers to dredge the Weihe River. Elder Chen Nianqi was one of them. Chen's family has lived by the river for generations. He is familiar with every blade of grass and tree along its bank. "The Weihe River has been polluted for decades, and I am delighted at the plan to harness it. Although I have not used a shovel for a dozen years, I must do my bit for the lake's construction."

On completion, it is believed that Xianyang Lake will improve the local climate and eco-environment, and make the city green all year round. One Tang poem says, "In February and March (lunar calendar) in Xianyang, the willow twigs turn to gold." This early spring the Xianyang people saw similarly golden prospects for their ancient city.