By SUSAN TRIMBLE

Yungang Grottoes on the southern slope of Wuzhou Mountain, 16 kilometers west of Datong.

BORDERED by Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi, Henan and Hebei, Shanxi Province is protected by the Great Wall in the north, the mighty Yellow River in the west and south, and the Taihang Mountain range in the east. Throughout China's history these protective barriers have allowed Shanxi to prosper and grow. Thus, we find the province dotted with ancient architectural treasures, spectacular carvings, exquisite embroidery, intriguing papercuts, and oodles still of old furniture and pottery.

History is rich with stories of the manifold personalities hailing from Shanxi. There is the famous Lord Guan, a brilliant militarist during the Three Kingdoms period, and Wu Zetian, the only female Emperor in Chinese history, who lived during the Tang period, and who was a ruthless, capable ruler. There is also strong evidence that the Taihang Mountain region was the birthplace of Lu Ban, the patron saint of carpenters and the master of Chinese inventions. Also in this celebrated company are the Magical Boxer, Chen Jingbai, 4th generation and superior master of Zhaobao Taijiquan, classical author Luo Guanzhong, who wrote the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, and Sun Simiao, a central figure in the field of herbal medicine, and now worshiped as the Medicine God. The list abounds with poets, painters, essayists, shrewd businessmen and political figures, all of whom distinguished themselves as leaders in their fields, and that claimed Shanxi, (or Jin as it is fondly known) as their birthplace.

Where did they work, where did they dream, what legacy did they leave us? What shall we explore in this captivating province ....

Hukou Falls, 25 kilometers southwest of Jixian County, Shanxi.

The Yungang Buddhist Grottoes, in the suburbs of Datong, northern Shanxi, are not to be missed. They are mostly Northern Wei 5th century sandstone sculptures with definite Indian, Greek, Byzantine and Persian influences, as well as Chinese style. With perseverance, a sense of adventure, and some good contacts you could spend several days examining recently discovered tombs in the suburbs of Datong. Tombs that date from the 2nd and 3rd century have revealed objects that teach the fascinating rituals and methods of burial of such ancient tribes as the Tuoba. Also outside of Datong, you can visit the famous Xuankong (Hanging) Monastery as well as several other wonderful temples and ancient buildings in the Mount Heng vicinity - a Daoist holy land. Try to find your way to The Dressing Table Tower for views of lush, green mountainscapes and clean air that will refresh you after the coal dust of Datong. China's oldest and tallest wooden pagoda in Yingxian is more than a thousand years old and still standing!

Wind your way south through the mountains all the way to Wutaishan, exploring temples along the way. Wutaishan offers awesome natural scenery and a perfect place to discover religious art and culture. Buddhist monks in orange robes appear as spots of color on holy mountain paths as they seek solitude on their way to hidden temples and monasteries.

Chunyang Palace in Taiyuan.

Back on the road again, head northwest crossing ancient bridges like the 800-year-old Puji, and pass over most often dried up riverbeds. Despite a water shortage in the province, the landscape nevertheless supports root crops and fruit trees. Zhu's Memorial Archway, built in honor of his mother, is a fine example of Qing Dynasty stone carving.

The representative Confucian Temple in Daixian has a beautifully built 12th century caisson ceiling in the main hall, probably the largest and best preserved ceiling extant of the period.

The strategic Yanmen Pass of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall was built on the summit of cliffs that form a natural barrier in northern Shanxi. A frontier garrison since ancient times, wild stories are told of legendary generals Yang and Li. Travel westward to Pianguan County and watch the Great Wall meet the mighty Yellow River.

In the lesser traveled Ningwu you can, with the help of a knowledgeable guide, examine cliffside suspended plank roads and hanging coffins.

Eat hearty wheat noodles -- Shanxi style -- in Taiyuan, the provincial capital. Polluted and busy, Taiyuan still has a special charm with its rich history and engaging people. The tiny Chongshan Monastery is very personal. Chunyang Palace Temple is now used to display a few ancient relics, while construction of a new Provincial Museum is anticipated. A wealth of newly excavated tombs awaits you in the suburbs of Taiyuan, but special arrangements to visit may demand higher than normal entrance fees. It's worth it!

Let's go southwest of Taiyuan and visit the Tianlongshan Buddhist Grottoes -- cliff carvings that began in the 6th century and continued over the next 400 years. Most caves date from the 10th century, the period of Tang. The site is small, exquisite in detail, unique in style, and in a breathtakingly beautiful setting. Have your driver meet you at the top in a field of jasmine bushes with a picnic lunch and cold beer!

The Hanging Temple, five kilometers south of Hunyuan County.

Since you are now intrigued with grottoes, take the time to scramble up a Longshan mountain path through brambles and brush to a tiny temple where you will discover the only Daoist grotto carvings in China. These Yuan Dynasty statues are well preserved and totally different in style to Buddhist grotto art.

Take the time to wander through the famous Jinci Ancestral Temple. The lovely gardens are fed with water from an underground stream that bubbles its way through rocky mountain layers to the valley below. They say the water is too sweet to freeze as it collects in the canals of the Jinci Temple.

Xuanzhong Temple, first built in the 5th century, was the birthplace of the Pure Land Buddhist Sect. Twenty-some monks reside here and welcome hundreds of Japanese devotees who make annual pilgrimages to this remote mountain setting.

South of Taiyuan, we enter an area where temples are plentiful, some of which should on no account be missed. But our focus will be on a variety of ancient homes built by wealthy merchant families. The Qiao family mansion is built in the shape of the Chinese character "Double Happiness." Easily accessible from Taiyuan, Qiaojia heaves with tourists and early morning is therefore the best time of day to visit. The Qu family mansion is a quiet and fascinating spot. The family had its own quirky theater. If you find the right guide, she may show you the secret passages that lead from one courtyard building to another. Take the side lane and visit the Qu family business establishment. The newly opened Chang family mansion and the Cao family mansion, (designed in the shape of the "Long Life" character), together will take you one full day to explore completely. A great place for lunch is Taigu, where you can sample the most delicious fried potatoes -- Shanxi style!

Take a detour to the Zhenguo Temple. Unique rooflines and beautifully executed frescos cover the walls of the 2nd story hall. The temple grounds are silent and heady with the fragrance of roses.

The stone archway to the Chang Family Mansion.

The Pingyao UNESCO world heritage site is one of the best preserved ancient cities in China. Founded in the 11th century, Pingyao retains its city wall, complete with 2-story turrets and city gates on all four sides. Walking through the gates of this ancient town is like stepping into a dream of long ago. Stay awhile in Pingyao and reflect on Shanxi.

Shuanglin Temple is famous for painted statuary of the Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasties. Situated in the mountains east is another tiny temple tucked into the side of a mountain overlooking a fertile valley and housing just three monks.

En route to Linfen, we will visit the Wang family mansion. Partially built into a hillside and a symbol of vast wealth, Wangjia is four times as large as Qiaojia.

In Hongdong the 700 year old Su San Prison is interesting, both for its design and for the plight of Su San. Operas and poems tell her tale:

"A feeble woman sadly complains of injustice

Even the old cypress can't bear to listen

Although the lover is in high position

He has the courage to acknowledge his former love

People still speak of him today - Wang Jinlong"

by Ma Shaobo, famous playwright.

The Yellow River basin is home to many famous sites, some dating from the Paleolithic period. A tour of this area should certainly include Hukou Falls, where the Yellow River thunders 30 meters into a narrow canyon.

If you are in the market for a puppy, Houma is the breeding center for those pug-faced Chinese dogs.

On to Yuncheng, birthplace of the great general Guan Yu, and where the mythical tribal rulers of Yu and Shun are said to have built their capitals. One of the earliest saltworks in prehistoric China was on the salty waters of Lake Yuncheng. A tiny museum inside Yuncheng City houses an ancient stele bearing a map of the Lake, showing an enormous wall around the perimeter and a single fortified gate. Salt was more valuable than gold and numerous temples and monasteries were built in the area to worship the Salt God.

Slightly south and over tricky mountain passes you will reach Yongle Palace. This temple was built to commemorate Lu Dongbin, a Daoist Immortal. The murals of Yongle are considered equal in importance to those of Dunhuang.

You are now in the southwest corner of Shanxi, cradled in the elbow of the Yellow River where it turns eastward and flows through Sanmen Gorge. Ancient sites with well-preserved grotto carvings are found in the southeast. Nature reserves inhabited by mountain tribes can be visited. More contemporary history awaits you as you travel north through the Taihang Mountains. The Eighth Route Army Headquarters, Dazhai and the western part of the Red Flag Canal represent an important period in China's history.

Many miles traveled, many memories stored, you leave Shanxi with a deep understanding of Chinese history and knowledge of the different cultures that have developed over the ages.

Some call Shanxi the birthplace of the Chinese nation. For me it is one very big living museum to which I am constantly drawn to discover yet another secret.

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During my most recent visit to Shanxi, I was privileged to attend the 100th anniversary of Ligong and Shanxi University. A dear friend and benefactor of Ligong has told me fascinating stories of her early life in China, and especially in Shanxi. Born in 1885, my friend's father was among the first graduates of Ligong, and was selected to receive a Boxer Indemnity Scholarship in London, England. While studying there, he fell in love with a brave English woman who gave up her privileged life and came to China as his bride. In 1914, my friend was born in Shanxi. Growing up in a distinguished family, she was privy to the lives of warlords, merchants, politicians and artists. The movers and shakers of the early century passed through her family home and the outline of history that is at her fingertips is astonishing.

Attending this century celebration was a special treat for me as it brought to a full circle the modern history of the Shanxi that I love. Thank you Joan! To you I dedicate this article.