By YUN ZHANG

The Naizi (breast) River is so named because it nurtures the lives of people living in Shangri-La.

AT the end of last year, the name of Zhongdian County, capital of Deqen Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in southwestern China's Yunnan Province, was changed to Shangri-La County. After nearly nine months of research, specialists and scholars now conclude that Zhongdian is the Shangri-La of the 1933 novel "Lost Horizon" by James Hilton.

Surrounded on all sides by snow-capped mountains, dense primeval forests, alpine lakes, and lush grassland, Shangri-La is a haven of peace. Above it float fluffy white clouds, and on the grassland below wander herds of cattle and sheep. Its Buddhist temples receive throngs of pilgrims, and Tibetan people and those of other ethnic groups live here in harmony. The air is fresh, and the scenery sublime. Birdsong accompanies sonorous Tibetan folk songs, and the Tibetan dances, performed against this enchanting backdrop, are a visual feast.

Here, the prevailing weather conditions alternate between high-altitude, alpine cool, to a more temperate, sub-tropical monsoon climate. Shangri-La boasts the largest forest zone in Yunnan Province, known as "treasure house of flora and fauna." It is also home to the largest natural pastureland, with abundant waters and grassland, in the province. Moirig Snow Mountain, one of the ten sacred mountains in the Tibetan regions, is located here. The county's isolated position has helped residents preserve their traditional lifestyle and culture. Shangri-La County is currently one of the most sought-out tourist destinations in China.

Lamaseries

Showing off costumes at a festival.

Lamaseries are a cornerstone of Tibetan culture. The most famous include Gaindain Sumzenlin and Dongzhulin monasteries. The former is the largest of 24 lamaseries in Deqen Prefecture and acts as center for the Yellow Sect in the Sichuan and Yunnan areas. Prior to liberation, it was site of the foremost level government offices in the region. Built in 1674, and, at the behest of the fifth Dalai Lama, modeled on the Potala Palace, the monastery covers an area of 30 hectares. At its zenith, the monastery housed 1,400 lamas and nine living Buddhas. The monastery's most precious relics are its eight gold leaf coated statues of Sakyamuni, as well as numerous exquisite sculptures, tangkhas, ritual implements, and priceless Buddhist scriptures.

Dongzhulin Monastery is located in Deqen County. It was built seven years prior to the Sumzenlin Monastery on a mountain slope. In October every year it holds a grand ceremony, when an 8.5-meter by 5.2-meter image of the guardian deity, woven in silk, is displayed. A traditional grand prayer and sutra chanting ceremony, attended by numerous pilgrims, is simultaneously held.

Snow Mountains

The mythical Moirig Snow Mountain.

Snow-capped mountains occupy an important place within Tibetan Buddhism, being regarded by Tibetans as sacred.

Moirig Snow Mountain, one of the few snow mountains in the world yet to be conquered by humankind, is 849 kilometers from Kunming, capital of Yunnan Province. At 6,740 meters above sea level, its main peak, Mt. Kawagebo, is the highest in the province, and on its southern slope is a magnificent waterfall. Mt. Kawagebo is said to be the guardian god of the Ningma Sect. At Tibetan New Year, pilgrims throng here to worship.

Summer is the best season to see Moirig Snow Mountain, with its snow-capped peaks, dense forests, vast grasslands and beautiful wild flowers. A visit to the two glaciers beneath Mt. Kawagebo is highly recommended. The glaciers' low latitude and high altitude, and outreach of 2,000 meters make them two of the rarest modern glaciers in the world.

Baimang Snow Mountain, also called Baima Snow Mountain, in Deqen County, is a national nature reserve. It is an extended area of primeval forest, and also a reserve for the endangered golden monkey.

Haba Snow Mountain is one of Yunnan's provincial nature reserves, located in the southern part of Shangri-La County. It has the largest variety of animals and plants anywhere in China, and is known as a "natural alpine garden," "the kingdom of alpine animals and plants," and "the world's gene bank for decorative plants."

Alpine Lakes

Nagpag Lake, a birds' paradise.

Nagpag Lake is 5 kilometers from the county town of Shangri-La. At 4 to 5 meters deep, the lake is famous as the winter habitat of the black-necked cranes, a national protected bird species. The cranes arrive in September or October, and leave in March the following year.

Bita Lake, 2,500 meters east of the county seat, covers 159 hectares. Around it are ancient pines and oaks. The lake water is clear, and in it swims a unique fish species, the "Bita double-lipped fish," a remnant from the Quaternary Glacier. The mid-lake islet, reached by boat, is another unique sight. On it is a winding path that leads to a place of quiet, contemplative seclusion.

Baishui Terrace

Baishui Terrace.

Baishui Terrace, 101 kilometers from the county seat, is sacred to the Dongba religion. It is said that this is where the first-generation founder of the Dongba religion first disseminated his beliefs, and that it is where the second-generation ancestor cultivated himself through meditation, and eventually formulated the Dongba script, known as a "living fossil." Seen from afar, the Baishui Terrace resembles white jade. According to geologists, the sinter has a history of 200,000 to 300,000 years.

Tiger Jumping Gorge

The Sumzenlin Monastery.

Tiger Jumping Gorge is the most famous gorge on the Jinsha River, and also has the longest drop in the world. It is 20 kilometers long, 50 meters in breadth at its widest section, and 20 meters at its narrowest. It has a drop of 200 meters. The gorge has 18 shoals, and the cliffs on its banks tower 3,000 meters above the river. The Mantianxing reefs area is the most hazardous spot. A short distance from the exit is a gully 1 kilometer deep -- an ideal place from which to view the Tiger Jumping Gorge.

Tourist Route:

One-day Shangri-La Suburban Tour:

Shangri-La -- Sumzenlin Monastery -- Nagpag Lake- Bita Lake.

Along this route visitors can call in at traditional residences, and at night, watch song and dance performances given by minority ethnic groups from Deqen.

Moirig Snow Mountain Pilgrimage Tour:

Shangri-La -- Deqen -- Yubeng -- Mingyong.

Along this route the sunset over Moirig Snow Mountain can be seen, as well as the gorges of the Lancang River, the ancient "tea and horses" trail, and the two glaciers.

Three-Mountain and Four-River Trekking Tour:

Baimang Snow Mountain -- Biluo Snow Mountain -- Gaoligong Mountain -- Jinsha River -- Lancang River -- Nujiang River -- Dulong River.

This route covers the "Three River Flowing Side by Side" area, which is rich in natural resources. It is also where the Tibetan, Yunnan and Central Plains cultures merge, and where several religions co-exist.

"Ancient Tea and Horse Trail" Exploration Tour:

Shangri-La -- Deqen -- Yanjing -- Zuogong -- Markam -- Qamdo.

Following the ancient horse caravan trail, visitors can experience the Kampa area hinterland culture. At Yanjing there is a Tibetan-style Catholic church, housing priests and nuns.

Yunnan-Sichuan-Tibet Triangle Border Culture Exploration Tour:

Shangri-La -- Snow Mountains -- Xiangcheng -- Riwa -- Chonggu Temple -- Yading -- Litang -- Batang -- Markam -- Dongzhulin Monastery.

This route is aimed at visitors interested in exploring Tibetan culture in the Kampa area hinterland, adventurers, and cross-country travelers. It concentrates the essence of the Kampa Tibetan culture, offering the chance to visit Daofu residences and see the Dege Buddhist Press.

Travel Services in Deqen:

Deqen CITS (China International Travel Service) tel: 0887-8225657;

Deqen International Travel Service tel: 0887-8222364;

Deqen CTS (China Travel Service) tel: 0887-8224379;

Deqen Shengdi Travel Service tel: 0887-8230298;

Chama Gudao Travel Service tel: 0887-8227098;

Deqen Plateau Exploring Travel Service tel: 0887-8228459;

Buddhist Travel Service tel: 0887-8227078.

(Deqen Prefectural Tourism Bureau: tel: 0887-8223786)

Hotels in Deqen:

Sightseeing Hotel (three-star plus) tel: 0887-8230698;

Huantai Hotel (three-star) tel: 0887-8229999;

Deqen Guesthouse (three-star) tel: 0887-8227599;

Bita Hotel (three-star) tel: 0887-8228008;

Xangbala Hotel (two-star) tel: 0887-8222190;

Kampa Hotel (two-star) tel: 0887-8224488.

Background to Deqen

Deqen has historically been an important political, military and cultural center within the Tibetan areas of Yunnan. Its position on the border of Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet also made it a main communications hub, as well as a market for the exchange of tea and horses. It has been a human habitat since the Neolithic Period. In the Qin Dynasty Deqen became an important commercial communications line, and by the Tang Dynasty it had become a part of the Tubo Kingdom. Tibetan culture spread through the area, and many Tibetans migrated here. During the Yuan Dynasty, it developed into an important market for tea and horses. The Deqen Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture was established in 1957. The majority of the local people here are Tibetan.